Diverted valve membrane removal - biasi 24s

[raf300]

Hi

Anyone know how I can remove the circlip on the diaphragm of the diverted valve in the biasi 24s boiler?
I need to replace the large diaphram as the hot water is not always being called when needed.

A link below shows the clip that I need to undo to remove the 2 mini copper pipes.

 

[Burnerman]

I know nowt about boilers but it's a conventional engineering clip.....rotate it so you can push a screwdriver into the closed end and pop it off.
John

 

[raf300]

Ok, if it is that simple that's great.
I didn't want to attempt it until I was sure what I am doing.

 

[raf300]

Forgot to say it is a tight space so will have to find a short screwdriver to pop the clip off.

 

[dilalio]

As @Burnerman said... you can rotate it round to a more convenient position to get a lever in there... you can also use needle nose pliers and open them up!

 

[raf300]

I was thinking they look very tight so opening them up would make it easier.

I did see online this car clip pliers that apply outward pressure.
Is there a need for that type of tool?

 

[dilalio]

I was thinking they look very tight so opening them up would make it easier.

I did see online this car clip pliers that apply outward pressure.
Is there a need for that type of tool?

No... just adapt and overcome like we do! Just watch for sharp edges and your knuckles and keep an eye on the circlip in case it flies off somewhere

 

[pete50]

If you try to open it up from the open end there is a better than even chance that you may stretch the opening permanently and then it may not seal or hold properly when you reuse it. Personally I would get new ones to put back. The correct way to remove it, as has been said, is to insert a screwdriver or needle nosed pliers, or similar, into the closed end and pull it off.

 

[raf300]

I had a go this afternoon and the clips where quite easy to remove with long nose pliers and a little bit of controlled strength.
However now the next step is to Move away the 2 copper pipes that are attached to the diverter.

I could not budge them, I tried to push them away but no movement.

Any special technique to try? Am I doing something wrong?

 

[raf300]

So once the clip is removed the copper pipe should pull away by hand.

For pipes that are stuck, any advice?

 

[AGAS]

that isn't the only place to be looking for that fault on this boiler and i get a feeling you will be taking that diaphragm apart a few times

 

[DP]

I shake my head in wonderment
Sorry OP, if you are foxed by this clip, I suggest you practice your engineering skills starting with Lego blocks and develop from there before embarking on boiler diagnostics
Have apologised so do not be offended. What you have started on, could end up as an expensive exercise
All that will be needed is spillage of water in a bad place which will then hit your pocket hard
Leave the repair skills to proper heating engineers, when I say proper heating engineers, not everyone that rings your door bell has diagnostic skills to claim the 'engineering' title
Wish you good luck

PS. Clip will not rotate, it sits in a slot so has to be withdrawn. OP wear a rain coat or turn the cold water off, relieve the cold water pressure before said clip is removed

 

[raf300]

No need to apologise.
Personally I wished I did engineering when I was younger but all I have done in terms of mechanics is work on cars in my 20s as a hobby. I think I have the makings of an engineer if I went back to school or did a course but time doesn't allow.

I agree with your comment about a true boiler engineer, as in the past I have had a few different boiler engineers come and not always been great.
The last one that came out to my boiler was ok. They replaced the central heating pin that moves to touch the micro switch that calls the hot water. This was done about a year ago. (£135 approx parts and labour).
They only replaced that part and said all ok now, left the other pin in a bag and said keep this in case you need it in future and don't have to buy the part.
Personally why couldn't they replace the other mechanical pin and the larger diaphram, least then the diverter is all sorted?

The reason I think it is the diverter valve is that when the hot water is called and it doesn't turn on, if you tap the diverter valve very lightly with a small hammer the hot water kicks in.
The other way is to turn on the central heating and wait for boiler to fire up, then turn it off. Then if you call the hot water it works.
I could be wrong but would annoyed to be right and pay again for something that should have be sorted properly the first time round.

Btw I was foxed by the clip as i had not seen one before and was tough to move, also I was mindful that I didn't want to ruin something that couldn't be easily fixed. I thought I would ask for advice, especially as space is tight in the boiler and I can't directly see behind the diverter valve to see how the clip and pipe are positioned.
Also when I attempted the fix, I turned off the cold water and opened the hot water taps to release all the pressure. Luckily I didn't get wet.

 

[raf300]

Removing the engineer clip, should the copper pipe just pull out?
For me it seems they don't move.
Anything I am missing to get the copper pipes to detach?

 

[AGAS]

think your going to struggle with this boiler fixing malarky RTFM