DIY Floating Desk

[Ed Green]

Hi all,

New to the forum and my first post!

So rather naively I went and ordered a custom work top to use as a desk.

My idea is to attach it to the wall in my office.

So I should have thought this through first - mistake number 1!

The work surface measurements are as follows:

2550mm x 620mm x 40mm.

It is made out of this wood:

https://www.worktop-express.co.uk/wood-worktops/narrow-stave-black-american-walnut-worktops

I didn't think further than simply battening the wall on three sides. In effect the work surface will go along one wall and fixed at the back and either side in a C shape.

The length is 2.55m so quite a length.

I was thinking of doing C shape battening and attaching the work surface to the top however other info I've seen on this suggests that the work top won't be that rigid and I will get sagging in the middle.

Any ideas on how to prevent this?

One thing I was thinking of was using 25mm square tubing system to build a support frame to sit under the work surface.

https://www.tradesystems.co.uk/Dexion-Speedfame-Compatible-25mm-Square-Tube-System.html

This is what I found.

If you look at the attached diagram i was thinking of using the 25mm tube system to build the frame to put under the worksurface.

What does everyone think of this idea? Will it be strong enough?

My next question is how to attach the frame itself to the wall?

And then attach the work surface to the frame.

Or am I being completely mad?

Any better ideas?

Thanks!

 

[Burnerman]

If you can get a good fixing on the wall for your back and side battens, a single peg leg at the front centre should be fine, maybe two if the load will be heavy.
Dexion speedfit is great stuff but not cheap - the finish is good, however.
John

 

[Ed Green]

Hi John,

Thanks for the response.

The idea is not to have any legs at all.

The link I put in my post seems to be an alternative to Dexion.

I spec'd out my diagram on their website and materials came to ~£180.

I'm just stumped as to how I fix it to the wall!

Thanks.

 

[Burnerman]

Hmmm no legs at all means some heavy duty metal at the front span, I think.....more than 1” square anyway, with no joints.
John

 

[Ed Green]

I fear you are right John!

 

[mattylad]

A desktop for use in your office?
Will you be putting a computer on it?
working at it and leaning on it?
If so - it will need legs or damn strong supports under it.

 

[Burnerman]

If your office walls are brick, Ed, you’ll get a good fixing for the timber battens.
If the walls are plasterboard then its a different ball game......you’ll either have to hit the timber studs within or rely on a tubular metal frame as you suggest.
John

 

[SFK]

Ed
I have a 3m floating desk
It rests on battens on three sides.

To stop middle sagging, and to take weight (I can stand on it without deflection) I use two of these near middle of desk:
https://www.toolstation.com/strong-stay-bracket/p62650

Note that my desk is 40mm thick so heavy but its thickness also reduces sag.
SFK

 

[foxhole]

Needs a leg or a heavy duty bracket or two off the back wall .
https://www.bullerltd.co.uk/heavy-duty-bracket-for-bench-and-tables.html?variation_id=3566

 

[SFK]

As the tool station brackets are a bit lightweight (the angled strut can flex) I was also tempted to buy these ar £22 in postage:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pair-H...605825?hash=item23dc94f881:g:ChcAAOSwMmhejGoh

 

[Ed Green]

Wow thanks for all the replies!

John - walls are plasterboard on either side and plasterboard over internal breeze block wall at the back - my house is a semi so its the wall in between me and my neighbours.

I was thinking of using these to fix the battens to the wall.

Good suggesting re brackets in middle SFK - thanks for that idea.

The worktop I am using is also 40mm thick wood so should be fairly rigid.

How does this idea work - C shaped battens back and side and 2 x brackets in the middle?

I suppose it wouldn't matter cutting the batten at the back into three pieces?

Any suggestions on what material would be best for battens?

Looking at construction timber its not that attractive!

Thanks.

 

[Burnerman]

Hollow wall fixings are ok, but of course you rely on the inherent strength of the plasterboard at the end of the day. Vertical studing will help spread the load downwards to the floor.
Keep the back batten in one length if you can.....much easier with levelling etc. Planed square edge timber with the edges sanded will look ok - you wont see it anyway. 2 1/2” x 1 1/4” timber will be fine ( sizes approximate).
John

 

[endecotp]

I have an alcove desk made from 18mm bamboo ply. It is 2200 x 960.
It is supported on 3 sides with substantial timber battens (one brick wall and two plasterboard walls, most screws into studs).
Underneath are three box-section steels, two 40x40mm and one 25x25mm, running left to right between notches in the battens. No legs or brackets.
The result is rock solid.

 

[whall3y]

I know it's not directly applicable, but for others looking for a long desk you can't fgo far wrong with this.... https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/linnmon-alex-table-black-brown-white-s99932696/ I have this setup, lots of storage along with desk space. I actually use it without the leg - seems strong enough with a 27" monitor in the centre.

 

[Ed Green]

Thanks again for the replies.

If I am keeping the rear batten in once piece, how would you fit brackets?

Over the top of the batten or notched into it?

If the plasterboard in my office is an anything like it was in living room, it will back almost straight onto breeze blocks with very little gap. I don't think there will be stud work behind it.

I could fix directly into the breeze block on the back wall for main support with batten and brackets and then use the plasterboard fixings on the sides.

Does that sound reasonable?

Endecotp - how did you fix the box section steels?

You desk material sounds more flexible than what I've selected so maybe I won't need steels and just brackets....