DIY Router Table

[morpheus83uk]

Hello,

I have been told by JobAndKnock how to create a Router Table which I have done and so far its gone really well. The original post can be found here:

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/routing-routers-and-angles.470222/

Now I have made something similar but not the same however I am a little bit confused regarding the fence.

Where does this need to go in relation to the bit? Does it need to sit in line with the bit or behind it?

I am thinking in line with the middle but I thought it best to ask before having to faff around and keep taking it apart and putting it back together.

Everything I look at on Google seems to have a gap in the fence where the bit is but I cant see if the fence is behind or in front of the fence.

Thanks

James

 

[endecotp]

It depends what you're going to route, and which edges of the wood are straight.

 

[morpheus83uk]

Thanks for the response. At the moment it's going to be bull nosing and rounding over edges. So all edges will be straight.

Thanks

James

 

[big-all]

you dont need a fence if the cutter has a roller bearing as that dictates the amount and shape the cutter removes
you do off course need a fence for more complicated or deeper cuts including very fine cutting depths outside the scope of the bearings you have to chose from

 

[morpheus83uk]

Thanks. I thought it would help keep the wood straight when pushing it through the cutter to give a neat cut throughout.

If I were to put on the fence would it be better behind or in line with the cutter for this kind of work?

And with your example above would the fence need to be able to move backwards and forwards?

Thanks

James

 

[nickjb]

The fence needs to be able to move forward and back to adjust for each job and bit. You don't need it for bearing guided bits but you can mount a safety guard to it. Makes the job slightly harder to hold but may save your fingers.

 

[morpheus83uk]

Ok thanks so how would I make the fence move forward and backwards? I am currently using a piece of 9mm hardboard as the table?

Thanks

James

 

[rsgaz]

Take at look at Matthias Wandel's tilting router lift...

https://www.woodgears.ca/router_lift/index.html

Even with bits that have a bearing, it's still advisable to use the fence, any tiny variation in the edge of the wood will be replicated in the cut the router bit makes otherwise.

Gaz

 

[morpheus83uk]

Thanks i think it maybe a bit beyond me currently but also I don't think I have room in my garage either lol. I was thinking something more simple and functional like just a sliding back and forward fence but I am a little unsure how to achieve this.

Thanks

James

 

[nickjb]

Bit of wood. Another bit of wood on the back to make an L. Couple of G clamps. Or a bolt at one end, g clamp at the other and pivot round the bolt. Like this (note the vacuum cleaner fitting which is a useful addition)

 

[morpheus83uk]

Thanks i was clearly over thinking it then. I have now made one and given it a test and it seems to work.

Thanks for all your help guys

James

 

[morpheus83uk]

Ok so the other half has decided I need to make some straight very shallow grooves in some wood to make some stairs for one of the animals.

How would I now build in tracks for the fence to go forward and back in a straight line? My dad thought a dovetail but I only have a 9mm piece of hardboard. So I am a bit unsure of how to progress now with this....

Any help is greatly appreciated.

James

 

[big-all]

you make a jig and use the router freehand with a guide bush
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=stair+stringer+template&t=ffsb&iax=1&ia=images

 

[morpheus83uk]

Ah sorry I meant ladders not stairs. When I am home tonight I will take a picture of the one which is currently ok so it gives a better idea of what I am after.

I could free hand it but I think it would be better using the fence to ensure the groves are straight.

Thanks

James

 

[vinn]

Router tables have been described as the poor mans Spindle Moulder only with more risks involved for the unwary and inexperienced.
Not saying you dont have experience but IMO, free holding the router is the way to go using clamp on guides.