do Drayton mid point actuators fail??

[stu900000]

Hi

Do Drayton mid point actuators fail? Not the electrical switch. I've take that off and am tuning the tap spindle with pliers. It tuns easy a quarter turn, but No hot water seems to be getting through to either the tank or the heating system.

There is one rad that seems plumbed outside of the diverter (small bath rad) and that does get hot. Pump also seems fine. Boiler is definitely producing hot water, but none of it is getting past this valve????

Seems weird but maybe something has gone inside ?

Advice mist welcome

Thanks


S

 

[Agile]

Are you sure your pump is working?

 

[stu900000]

Fairly sure.
It seems to pump water round the little bathroom rad. I can hear it. I also took off the little flat screw over the axle and it turns OK.

 

[matt1e]

due to the construction of the valve its very unlikely that both ports are closed off in fact its safe to just discount it for now
I'd go with agile and agree it's likely the pump, well poor circulation anyway
shut off the rad that is on the bypass and report back on both how the boiler is behaving and the rest of the system is

Matt

 

[stu900000]

Hi

I replaced the diverter and looking at the Gubbins inside I see what you mean about it being unlikely to fail both ways. But the electrical switch on top was knackered so it seemed a good idea.

But I still have no flow or v slow flowing central heating. Upstairs rads heat up v slowly and no heat downstairs. Boiler out pipe gets very hot though all the way up to and beyond the pump.

I think the pump is OK as it is flowing through the little bathroom rad on its own loop. Also heating the hot water OK. I've switched off the bath rad as it was just pumping Round this to y loop and no heat going to any other rads. Switching off pushed more heat to upstairs rads but still mostly cold after an hour. I've got the taps wide open.

Worcester boiler engineer came out and pronounced it is fine. Although it is overheating if I just run the central heating side of things.

System drains down OK too. So I don't think its a dodgy valve.
I even back flushed by attaching the garden hose to the drain tap. Water coming out fine into the header tank.

Return pipe to boiler seems to stay cool. Something is getting through but very little.

Does this mean the pipes are blocked on the return loop to the boiler?
I can't think of another explanation.

Starting to get desperate now. Is it time for a power flush?

 

[stu900000]

I m going to start a new thread as the title of this one seems a bit misleading now.
Cheers

S

 

[Agile]

Oh dear!

Clogging up the forum with related postings by the same OP.

Don't you realise that you can edit the heading you first chose at any time?

Tony

 

[stu900000]

Thanks Tony. Will do that in future

 

[matt1e]

Starting to get desperate now. Is it time for a power flush?

Have you had the pump checked over?

 

[stu900000]

Yes . Checked pump. Plumber thinks it is ok and it makes sense as gets round the small unswitched rad in the bathroom ok. Im keeping an eye on it though as hot water is only Luke warm. I think the water outlet on the cylinder was tuned too loe. I've increased the flow a bit but if that does not give me more hot water maybe the pump is getting tired.

 

[Agile]

If only you had a contact thermometer and told us the temps in each part of your system then we could guide you properly.

Words do not count compared with figures!

Tony

 

[matt1e]

Yes . Checked pump.Plumber thinks it is ok and it makes sense as gets round the small unswitched rad in the bathroom ok

No it only means that you have some circulation,the above is not an adequate diagnostic
Did he remove the head and inspect the impeller? because it seems you have poor circulation
as Agile says some temp readings would be useful,

 

[stu900000]

I don't have a temp sensor.

I took the pump head off. Seems fine.