door - big gap at bottom

[DrGonzo]

The back door in our kitchen has been cut in such a way that when it is open, it is parallel with the floor and not too much of a gap.
However, when you close it there is a 35mm gap at one end and nothing at the hinge end.
Anyway to close this gap but still have clearance when it opens inwards?
I assume the floor is not level.

 

[andyboyo]

yeah my house was like that when i moved in .

what i done was cut the door square at its highest point (the end with the 35mm gap)

so you have a 35mm gap all the way along and then add a 30mm section at the bottom of your door to close the gap

this way you clear the raised floor in the kitchen and close the gap at the door.

 

[Richard C]

I assume the floor is not level.

Or the door frame isn't plumb!

 

[DrGonzo]

yeah my house was like that when i moved in .

what i done was cut the door square at its highest point (the end with the 35mm gap)

so you have a 35mm gap all the way along and then add a 30mm section at the bottom of your door to close the gap

this way you clear the raised floor in the kitchen and close the gap at the door.

A 30mm section of what? Rubber draft prevention stuff or one of those brush like draft extractors?

Or do you mean, a 30mm section onto the door frame? If I do that, then there'll be a little ledge sticking up that everyone is bound to trip over constantly

 

[big-all]

without correcting the origional problem the only neat way i can see it working is by introducing a greater throw at the bottom hinges by using a parliment hinge on the bottom to increase the throw

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=10828&ts=30697


but because the distance between the top and bottom hinge is around 60" and the door is around 30" you would have to increase the throw on the bottom hinge to 35mm beyond the top hinge knuckle[which would double when the door opens but only lift the front edge by 35mm]

this would look odd with the bottom hinge sticking out 70mm more than the top and the door wanting to shut all the time

and the door would not open much beyond 90 degres where it would start to drop again and bind on the floor
you would also have to angle the hinge knuckles a few degrees to line up perfectly or the door wont open
you would also have to put a greater leading edge on towards the bottom because of the greater throw

 

[DrGonzo]

Wouldn't a rising butt hinge be better?
All good in principlie but it doesn't fix the problem because there's still a gap at the bottom of the door and I don't want to replace the door if I can help it.

Is it better to buy a draft excluder - rubber or brush?
OR
Place a block of angled wood and attach to the floor? As I mentioned people might trip over it.

 

[big-all]

dont think you would get enough height with a rising butt!!!!

you could try one of those spring loaded brushes that drops down on the outside as a flat flap on the end getts caught between door and jamb