Door handle fixing

[KennyPowers]

Hi all,

Got a door handle that keeps coming off. Essentially it is the screws that pull out, probably due to the cheap hollow panel door not providing a decent enough hold for the screw threads.

Any suggestions? I was thinking if just trying screws with a bigger thread.

Cheers.

 

[JohnD]

fix it with screws and sleeve nuts.

they might be listed as door handle screws

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224360423557?hash=item343cec6085:g:IDUAAOSwEoJafZ8r

see
https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/...dle-in-a-oak-veneer-door.570680/#post-4959710

https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/door-handle-fitting.576253/#post-5031956

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/hoppe-spare-m4-bolt-3x22mm-female-nut-394590

 

[KennyPowers]

This particular door is our understairs storage cupboard door, which only has a handle on the outside.

I guess those fixings are more designed for holding 2 handle fixings together, but maybe would still work if I use washers. Just will look a bit odd

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Sleeve nuts don't work with that type of handle and back plate. I'd suggest removing the latch, chopping out a bigger recess and installing a snug fitting softwood block. This needs to be big enough to "pick up" the door handle screws and should be glued in place. The door should then be fitted with a roller ball catch, adjusted to reduce the spring pressure and if at all possible the handle locked so it cannot rotate, before reinstalling with longer screws.

I think part of the problem is that users of the door are attempting to open the door before fully retracting the latch. Young children elderly parents, perhaps?

 

[JohnD]

Sleeve nuts don't work with that type of handle and back plate.

why not?

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Because sleeve nuts are designed to be used with either 2-piece escutcheons (under piece generally stamped steel with two or more hexagonal holes for the sleeve nuts and a friction fit polished top cover) or handle sets where the handle base (often stamped steel) is pierced with 2 or 4 hexagonal holes for the sleeve nuts and come with polished cover pieces ready mounted. The OP's handles isn't that type. Also any lock, or more likely in this case, sprung latch needs the body to come ready drilled to accept the sleeve nuts and many older or lower cost fitti gs do not have the drillings

I fitted about a dozen front door sets last week, if I fit any more this week I'll take a couple of pics to illustrate what I'm talking about

 

[JohnD]

But what is there about the handle that can prevent them "working?"

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Fit the handle from the other side if the door (if it is still available) so that it only rotates upwards - acts like a solid handle in the msin

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

You can buy replacement handle pairs, which bolt through the door, clamping the door between them like a sandwich, rather than screwing to the door.

 

[foxhole]

Some sleeve nuts are hex and smooth on the ends but the ones John links too are countersunk Philips head both ends and can be used on most door handles.

 

[KennyPowers]

An update; ordered the sleeve screws/nuts from JohnD's link above.

Luckily I found the other counterpart handle in shed, so decided just to stick that on other side of door, to act like a big washer in effect.

Took a little longer than anticipated. Had to make the holes on one of the handles bigger to accommodate the sleeve nuts, plus hacksaw the screws one section shorter.

Also had a bit of trouble screwing into the sleeves, as the alignment of holes wasn't 100%.

But all done now, cheers guys (can you still say that these days?)

 

[clifford1]

But all done now, cheers guys (can you still say that these days?)

It's easier to say than "Sleeve nuts won't work with this kind of door because... and because ... "