Dot & Dab depth (say that quickly...)
- Thread starter GotWood
- Start date
i would level the wall out with undercoat pref s&c with it being a bathroom then d&d on the newly straight wall
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- 7 Jan 2011
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Depending on the size weight and type of tiles, it may be better to just S&C and tile straight on top. Only downside is waiting for the render to dry out, but will be the best surface to tile on.
You can dab strips of plasterboard at the worst places and then dab over that, if you can afford the space IMO batten and board is the best way of truing up a bad wall quickly and accuratly with as near to perfect results as possible. Before you use moisture board be sure to fully investigate the tiling section, aquapanel may be more suitable for you.
Thanks all. Dumb question time: How do you get the batons flat/plumb if the wall you are screwing to is off? Do you use different thicknesses of shims? It seems like a fiddly job.
As I need to make this wall line up with a boxed-in window recess, d&d sounds like the best route still - unless you have a trick to achieving a similar finish with batoning?
gw
I use 2x1 battons, screwed with 4" tapcons, they have a 2" shank on them, I also use plastic packers to true the walls up, once all fixed I apply expanding foam between the batten and the wall, this really firms things up. I find it much better that D&D and it also provides a good size void for concealing pipework and cables if required. Fit the battons at 400mm centers.
Before you crack on with the MR plasterboard, I would advise you read the Tiling Forum Sticky & archive posts to avoid making mistakes with preparation & the materials you’re using, basic mistakes made now could turn your project into an expensive disaster zone.
MR PB is fine for dry areas but should be tanked in wet areas if you want it to last, waterproof tile backer board is far better. Plasterboard has a maximum tile weight, what size/weight tiles are thinking of laying? Even if you’re within acceptable tiling weight, you should not rely on the adhesive alone or the whole lot could end up on the floor. If solid external walls are involved, dot & dab is a bad idea, you may get cold spots causing condensation & even using battens, all sorts of muck can grow in the void behind the boards.
MR PB is fine for dry areas but should be tanked in wet areas if you want it to last, waterproof tile backer board is far better. Plasterboard has a maximum tile weight, what size/weight tiles are thinking of laying? Even if you’re within acceptable tiling weight, you should not rely on the adhesive alone or the whole lot could end up on the floor. If solid external walls are involved, dot & dab is a bad idea, you may get cold spots causing condensation & even using battens, all sorts of muck can grow in the void behind the boards.
Superb, thanks gents.
Richard C, you make an interesting point about damp issues behind boards.
The wall I need to board is an external wall and has an airbrick/grill - should this be blocked before boarding over it? Or should I add a grill to the new boards?
I will use Aquapanel.
Richard C, you make an interesting point about damp issues behind boards.
The wall I need to board is an external wall and has an airbrick/grill - should this be blocked before boarding over it? Or should I add a grill to the new boards?
I will use Aquapanel.
Sorry just noticed I didn’t reply. What’s the vent for, is it one of those they used to have in bathrooms before fans were fitted or does it serve some other purpose?
As I asked before, is the external wall solid brick or cavity?
As I asked before, is the external wall solid brick or cavity?
Hi Richard,
External cavity wall (red-brick, 1890's, ~62cm thick). Here is the vent:
View media item 33180
I am very grateful for your advice
gw
External cavity wall (red-brick, 1890's, ~62cm thick). Here is the vent:
View media item 33180
I am very grateful for your advice
gw
Sorry is that 1890’s or a typo? Cavity walls weren’t invented until the 1920’s so if it’s that old it must be solid brick; it is quiet important you get this right!
So has the room it’s in always been a bathroom? Do you have any similar vents elsewhere in the property?
Everyday is a school day!!!
Yep, 1890's. The reason I assumed it is cavity is because I poked a stick through the vent and found I could feed it downwards by ~12-18" before I hit the external wall. Maybe this is normal for vent installations in solid walls.
It is a converted flat, so no, it was never originally a bathroom - We are on the third floor and that wall is North facing. There is another vent in another room (same design/style) on a West facing wall.
The AP wall I am putting up will only sit about 5-10mm from this vent (as the vent is proud of the wall).
Yep, 1890's. The reason I assumed it is cavity is because I poked a stick through the vent and found I could feed it downwards by ~12-18" before I hit the external wall. Maybe this is normal for vent installations in solid walls.
It is a converted flat, so no, it was never originally a bathroom - We are on the third floor and that wall is North facing. There is another vent in another room (same design/style) on a West facing wall.
The AP wall I am putting up will only sit about 5-10mm from this vent (as the vent is proud of the wall).
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