Double Built Under Oven and Gas Hob Wiring Question

[Longclough]

I know that similar questions appear in the forum already, but having read through lots couldn't find what I was looking for. I hope that someone can provide me with best solution.

My current setup is as follows:

The Consumer Unit fitted with B32 MCB is connected via 6 mm2 T+E to a 45A cooker switch (Including 13A socket) fitted above the worktop. The cooker switch is then connected via 6 mm2 T+E to a double socket. Both the current single oven and gas hob are plugged directly in to the double socket.

My new Double built under oven rated at 4.5 - 4.9 kw (according to the back plate) and therefore requires hard wiring. the new gas hob includes a 13A plug. The question is as only one 6 mm2 cable is available, is it possible to connect both appliances using the same cable. If so what is the best method of doing this?

Any help with this would be appreciated

 

[ColJack]

swap the double socket backbox for a dual backbox and then do this..

View media item 10929 View media item 10930

 

[Chri5]

Or do as CJ mentions and if you wish to loose the hob plug fit a fused spur with a 3 amp fuse- then the wiring between hob and f/spur can be contained in tube behind the tiles.

 

[ColJack]

why would he need to hide the hob wiring behind the tiles?
the socket is below the counter and out of sight.. presumably..

 

[Chri5]

CJ why do you give off a 'tone' on your posts when someone adds to them ?

I've agreed with you and simply added to the info, so don't start getting stroppy about it !

OP says

(Including 13A socket) fitted above the worktop.

So what does that mean ?


Do you consider a socket under counter a safe point of isolation ? I don't, and equally a counter top socket with a plug coming up from below the counter is about a cowboy as it gets.
Hence my reply- coexist and stop being so pmt

 

[Longclough]

ColJack thanks for the quick solution.

I was hoping from the reading I did that something like this would do!

Also Chri5 I would prefer the plug socket, but did see your solution in some of the other posts on here.

For Info, the double socket is located below the worktop counter.

Just to clarification the 6 mm2 cable comes into the right hand socket as do the spur cables for the plug socket. The oven would then be connected via suitable cable (Manufacturer says 4 mm2, but I will use 6 mm2) to the top of the terminal block in right socket.

Does this mean that the oven does not require its own fuse?

 

[riveralt]

swap the double backbox for a dual backbox and then do this..

View media item 10929 View media item 10930

ColJack - is the unit on the right is a cooker connection unit?

Might it also be possible to run two 6mm T&E from the cooker switch - one to a cooker connection unit and then onto the oven and the other to a double socket?

 

[Longclough]

Chri5 to clarify:

The 45A cooker isolation switch is located above the worktop. I was just specifying that the it was of the type that included a plug socket. The cooker isolation switch then feeds the double socket below the counter and therefore can be isolated from the cooker top.

 

[mikhailfaradayski]

electrically speaking, there is no difference between a fuse in an fcu or a fuse in the plug (as suggested above), but either way, do not do away with a fuse. bad
However, there may be a issue with warranty on the hob if you cut the plug off. A single socket will probably cost you less than fitting an FCU and there is less involved aswell.

I would do as Col suggests

 

[ColJack]

CJ why do you give off a 'tone' on your posts when someone adds to them ?

I've agreed with you and simply added to the info, so don't start getting stroppy about it !

sorry if you read a tone into that comment.. I was merely trying to ascertain why you thought that the hob plugged in above the counter.

OP says

(Including 13A socket) fitted above the worktop.

So what does that mean ?

if you're going to quote, at least use the whole thing and not pick parts to re-enforce you point..
the OP says....

45A cooker switch (Including 13A socket) fitted above the worktop. The cooker switch is then connected via 6 mm2 T+E to a double socket.

.. which I read as a cooker switch incorporating a socket above the counter and a double socket, controlled by the cooker switch, below the counter.

Do you consider a socket under counter a safe point of isolation ? I don't, and equally a counter top socket with a plug coming up from below the counter is about a cowboy as it gets.
Hence my reply- coexist and stop being so pmt

again.. if you took the time to actually read the OP's post then you'd see that the cooker switch above the counter is the point of isolation and no one at any point suggests changing the cooker switch to what I suggested and having the cables sticking through the counter..
so stop implying that I'm a cowboy.
perhaps I could have been more explicit and said "replace the double backbox for the double socket.. ", but I took it as read that that was what I was referring to, not the double backbox for the above counter cooker switch...

 

[ColJack]

ColJack - is the unit on the right is a cooker connection unit?

yes it is.

Might it also be possible to run two 6mm T&E from the cooker switch - one to a cooker connection unit and then onto the oven and the other to a double socket?

yes it might, but wny the need for a double socket? you're only plugging in the gas hob, so why the added expense?

 

[riveralt]

Might it also be possible to run two 6mm T&E from the cooker switch - one to a cooker connection unit and then onto the oven and the other to a double socket?

yes it might, but wny the need for a double socket? you're only plugging in the gas hob, so why the added expense?

Thanks for that

 

[ColJack]

I really need to start using the spell checker..

wny = why..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

yes it might, but wny the need for a double socket? you're only plugging in the gas hob, so why the added expense?

The added expense is trivial, and the added effort is trivial.

Swapping a 1-gang to a 2-gang later on may not be trivial.

OK - under a worktop and behind a kitchen unit a later swap wouldn't be majorly disruptive, but as a general rule I'd never install a single instead of a double anywhere, unless there was no space.

 

[Longclough]

ColJack: One last thing, the Cooker Connection unit on the right. Does this need to be fused?