Double for single connection issues

[MickyP10]

I want to add a double rad in the place of the existing single, but anticipating the valves will not line up, as the double will (probably) have its tails further from the wall. My pipes inconveniently go into the cavity through plasterboard and they have little wiggle room. Can you get valves with a longer stem to the actual valve bit, to make up the difference, if that makes sense. Or any other tips appreciated.

 

[Exedon]

Stud wall or solid with dot and dab?

 

[MickyP10]

Stud. And it goes through the floor (which I can't get beneath), like the piccy below. This particular rad was screwed to a partition stud wall, and I need to do away with this one anyway, hence the brutalised plasterboard etc.

 

[MickyP10]

I was thinking of this sort of thing. Bit of an extension on the feed. https://www.toolstation.com/pegler-mistral-2-trv/p91784

 

[justigator]

Not very clear...do you have access as per your final photo, or is that a different radiator? If you do have such access, then it looks like you have plenty of room to cut the vertical pipe and solder on a short new part with a new elbow and a longer horizontal bit - and indeed move it left or right if your new radiator requires. If you are limited to access from the front as per your second photo, there still looks to be just enough pipe to solder on a short horizontal extension. If it's as per your first photo I think you may need to excavate a bit!

 

[MickyP10]

HI and thanks for reply. The first photo is the one which needs extending out of the wall. Second photo is where it'll need to be lengthwise (as this one's a double); the third photo shows an example of how the rads are plumbed into the wall. This one's excavated because it's going. So essentially I'm trying to extend from outside the stud wall about 20-30mm without cutting a chunk out of the plasterboard, and my hope was there was an extension (rad tail? Although the ones I've seen are a tiny bit small for a 15mm copper pipe) I can adapt to gain that teeny bit of room. I can change the valves to ones with further centres if I can find any!

 

[MickyP10]

If that tail in pic would accept 15mm pipe (it's a gnat's tight), the problem would be solved, as I could use the existing nut and extend the valve out a short way. Are they all this size?

Edit to say that's just a valve I had lying around to play with some copper and try out my theory.

 

[Exedon]

If you don't want to hack into plaster board cut it say 20mm from face of plaster and use a 15mm connector of your choice.
May just be room to get a compression in if you don't fancy soldering.

 

[MickyP10]

I think my worry is a) it's very tight on space (pic one) and b) there's a soldered elbow t'other side of plasterboard (pic 3) which will probably dribble out if I try soldering a stub on the other end.

Just wondering if there not any extensions which can be used for this. The rad tail extensions you can get nearly solve the problem as in my last pic with the copper pipe on table.

 

[Iddy]

This might work - remove the nut and olive on this and connect to the existing nut and olive on the end of the pipe out the wall. The tap connector part can then go straight on the valve using a fibre washer to seal...

 

[DP]

Best to renew from the solder elbow
Rest is going to be a botch