Double gang Two lights

[EFLImpudence]

Well - I can only presume that the switch is indeed faulty.

You could swap the wires around - that is swap the two reds and swap the two blacks - and see if it works the other way round.

 

[ChrisGGG]

I will go and buy a new switch tomorrow.

Please could you tell me the correct way to wire it up tomorrow because im a bit confused.

Thanks for the help its appreciated.

 

[EFLImpudence]

It is wired correctly.

In each switch:
Red in Com
Black in L1
If the switch works 'upside down' then put the black in L2

Switches vary - but the terminals are in a triangle:
These triangles may be the same way up as your present one is or
one of them may be upside down.

Thanks to Flameport for the picture.

Com, L1, L2 responds to
L,..... L1, L2 or
L1,... L2, L3.
depending on the make.

 

[ChrisGGG]

Just to let you know i swapped the blacks and reds.

I got the same result, back light always on and front room could be switched on and off BUT it worked via the other switch if that makes sense.

 

[EFLImpudence]

That doesn't make sense.


Did you swap the two reds around and then
swap the two blacks around?

Not swap the reds and blacks with each other.

 

[ChrisGGG]

That doesn't make sense.


Did you swap the two reds around and then
swap the two blacks around?

Not swap the reds and blacks with each other.

I know why the two reds where still bridged

 

[EFLImpudence]

Take out the bridge.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Chris - it's quite clear that basically you have a choice between Plan A and Plan B.

PLAN A:

• Learn how lighting circuits are wired.
  • //www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:Lighting
  • http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=uk+lighting+wiring+(basics+OR+101)
  • //www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:books
  • //www.diynot.com/wiki/Electrics:index
• You'll probably need to get a multimeter and learn how to use it.
• Identify which conductors are which at the switches and the light positions.
• Check for circuit continuity, switches working etc.
• Connect everything up properly.

PLAN B:

• Get an electrician.

There are some irresponsible people here who will tell you that there is a Plan C, which is to start trying different things without really knowing what's going on, hoping to get it working by luck, or by blindly following instructions to put-this-wire-in-that-hole without any idea as to why. Please don't listen to them - you must know what, and truly understand what, you are doing.

Electrical-installation-by-guesswork is a foolish idea.

There is no Plan C for anybody sensible.

 

[Risteard]

It looks like its just used to extend the neutral from the back room.

It should go to the light.

It's not a neutral.
Neutral is the name of the conductor which completes the circuit from the load back to the electrical source.
It is not a name for any black (or blue now) wire.
Wires can be anything we want; they do not know what colour they are.

Although it would also be worth pointing out that a phase conductor must be correctly identified, which clearly isn't the case in this instance.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Whilst it would be beneficial, identifying which is permanent line and which is switched line is never done.

Marking all as the same would not help.

 

[PBC_1966]

Whilst it would be beneficial, identifying which is permanent line and which is switched line is never done.

Although in British wiring where red & black T&E used as the switch loop, it's almost always the case that the red is the permanent live and black (with or without red sleeve) is used as the switched return.

 

[Risteard]

Whilst it would be beneficial, identifying which is permanent line and which is switched line is never done.

Marking all as the same would not help.

I never said that permanent and switched line should be separately marked. I pointed out that all line conductors must be correctly identified as line conductors, which they are not.

 

[PBC_1966]

I pointed out that all line conductors must be correctly identified as line conductors, which they are not.

According to the Wiring Regs. for a good many years, yes, but I think we all know that in practice you'll probably find just as many red/black switch loops without the black having been sleeved/taped red as with it, so anyone opening a wall switch needs to be aware of that.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Although in British wiring where red & black T&E used as the switch loop, it's almost always the case that the red is the permanent live and black (with or without red sleeve) is used as the switched return.

It is - but I suspect ONE of the cables may be the other way unless miscommunication and a faulty switch.


However some electricians advocate using the black as permanent line so that you know which it is in the ceiling loop.
I don't see the advantage as it is just going to be confused for different reasons.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I never said that permanent and switched line should be separately marked.

I never said you did.

I pointed out that all line conductors must be correctly identified as line conductors, which they are not.

Yes, according to the regulations -
but for two switches with four conductors, (or two switches with ten conductors - two two-way circuits) what is the point?