Double Socket behind inbuilt cooker change query.

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Appreciative in any advice regarding a change over in the kitchen. It is a new build, so no previous re-wiring has been undertaken.

Currently have a 2.1kw undercounter Bosch Electric Single Oven and a Bosch Gas Hob (electric ignition). We are changing the hob from gas to induction, getting a Gas safety engineer to cap off the piping.

I intend to wire in the induction hob myself.

There is a dedicated Wylex 32A MCB at the fuse box feeding a counter top 45A Cooker Switch. Behind the cooker is a standard double socket, the Single Oven being 13A mains plug and the mains plug for the hob ignition.

All the other sockets in the kitchen are on another dedicated 32A MCB.

My questions pertains to the replacement Induction hob, that is 7.1kw and needs hard wiring.

Am I ok in swapping out the double socket for a 2 Gang double pole 45A switch and 13A socket? The 45A side feeding the hob and the 13A socket for the oven.

As the counter top 45A switch is currently feeding a sole 13A double socket would the t/e cable need uprating?

Presuming a 2 gang 45A/13A double socket is fine for this installation can I assume that within the specifications I can use either of 4mm or 6mm t/e cable from the induction hob to this wall socket?

Many thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[JohnD]

There is a dedicated Wylex 32A MCB at the fuse box feeding a counter top 45A Cooker Switch

and what is supplied from this circuit and this switch? Have you checked?

would the t/e cable need uprating?

Depends. What size is it?

 

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and what is supplied from this circuit and this switch? Have you checked?

As I said John, a double 13A mains socket behind the cooker is the only feed from that. There then is a separate 32A MCB for the rest of the kitchen sockets.

 

[JohnD]

Behind the cooker is a standard double socket ...

Am I ok in swapping out the double socket for a 2 Gang double pole 45A switch and 13A socket?

A switch hidden behind an appliance is no use.

 

[JohnD]

As I said John, a double 13A mains socket behind the cooker is the only feed from that.

Actually, you didn't say.

It would be normal to have a cooker outlet fed from the switch. Quite possible one was previously fitted and the socket was put in to replace it. If you are having an electric hob, a cooker outlet, controlled from the 45A switch, would be correct. You can also feed the oven from it.

photos would be informative.

 

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A switch hidden behind an appliance is no use.

No real different than the switches on the current double socket behind the cooker? That then in turn has an isolation switch from the 45A counter top cooker switch surely?

So would I be better off replastering and putting two individual sockets in, one 45A dedicated hob and spurring a single 13A socket off that?!

 

[Figurehead]

Actually, you didn't say.

It would be normal to have a cooker outlet fed from the switch. Quite possible one was previously fitted and the socket was put in to replace it. If you are having an electric hob, a cooker outlet, controlled from the 45A switch, would be correct. You can also feed the oven from it.

photos would be informative.

Your attitude is a little offish, I did say "As the counter top 45A switch is currently feeding a sole 13A double socket would the t/e cable need uprating?"

 

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So for futher clarity, although I feel I have already concisely explained the situation in the opening questions.

There is a 32A MCU feeding this 45A Wall Switch, this is connected SOLELY to the double socket behind the cooker which is 2100kw and 13A mains plug, and a 13A mains plug for the current gas ignition hob.

 

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The rest of the kitchen sockets are on their own 32A circuit.

 

[JohnD]

the picture does look to me like there used to be a square cooker outlet than was later swapped to a double socket. That would make sense. When you take the socket off you may find marks on the wall. I would expect to find just one, large, T&E cable in it. If more, it may be doing something else.

A cooker outlet has a very big back-box so you will have a bit of chiselling and filling to do. The cables are very stiff and difficult to shape.

I find Crabtree very good.

But in your case you may want a dual-appliance outlet

examples on
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/tcl/search?query=cooker+outlet&Submit=Search

 

[AndyPRK]

It's certainly an unusual way forward, but given you already have a double back box down there, I can't see any issues other than getting the hob cable out, and secured

 

[Figurehead]

the picture does look to me like there used to be a square cooker outlet than was later swapped to a double socket. That would make sense. When you take the socket off you may find marks on the wall.

A cooker outlet has a very big back-box so you will have a bit of chiselling and filling to do.

I find Crabtree very good.

We moved into this house as a new build, first and only owners, so no. The Bosch electric single oven and Bosch gas hob were part of the kitchen installation when we bought the house. The double socket has always been behind the cooker as is....I only removed the single oven last night and took pictures.

 

[Figurehead]

It's certainly an unusual way forward, but given you already have a double back box down there, I can't see any issues other than getting the hob cable out, and secured

A little unorthodox yes, I was thinking it would be ok to get one of these 45A/13A double sockets and chisel out some plaster and feed through some 4mm t/e cable through one of the back box grommets to connect up.

Would the other solution be to remove the 13A mains plug from the 2.1KW Oven and wire them both up to a double 45A outlet plate? Or would I have to fit a single 45A outlet plate and take a spurred single mains socket from that for plugging in the oven.

 

[AndyPRK]

All those methods are technically acceptable.

I would use high temp flex to the inductionhob. 2.5mm should be enough

your way sounds easiest and could be reversed.

 

[Figurehead]

All those methods are technically acceptable.

I would use high temp flex to the induction hob. 2.5mm should be enough

your way sounds easiest and could be reversed.

Thanks, I have actually been to Toolstation now and bought a 45A/13A twin cooker socket and been to CEF and bought a couple of metres of HO7RNF cable. Thick plaster is dot and dabbed onto the brick wall so plenty of room to drill a hole and feed that flexible cable in behind the socket through one of the metal box glands.

Checked that the 32 MCB to the Kitchen counter switch and the feed from that to the current double socket is 6mm2 T&E.

Quite confident in the knowledge that I can now save money as already have to pay out for gas safety engineer to cap off the gas supply.

Thanks for your advice.