Double Socket behind inbuilt cooker change query.

[EFLImpudence]

plenty of room to drill a hole and feed that flexible cable in behind the socket through one of the metal box glands.

You may just as well have done that to the double socket that was already there.

 

[AndyPRK]

True.

Though you will get better connections with one cable per terminal, rather than mix flex and 6mm in the same terminal

 

[Figurehead]

You may just as well have done that to the double socket that was already there.

It may be my own home but I am not into doing a cowboy job, leave that to the initial builders thank you.

No way am I going to hot wire up to the back of a 13A double socket 4mm2 H07RN-F flex cable and leave a double socket visible...you may as well be saying that rather than buying 45A cooker outlet plates that people should just be wiring into the back of a mains socket instead and having the bonus of an extra mains plug socket.

I may not be an electrician and here to ask some advice in confidence for doing the job, but I certainly am not stupid.

 

[EFLImpudence]

It may be my own home but I am not into doing a cowboy job, leave that to the initial builders thank you.

Then don't just drill a hole and poke the flex through to whatever.

 

[EFLImpudence]

https://www.toolstation.com/metal-box/p36665
https://www.toolstation.com/crabtree-45a-cooker-outlet-plate/p22152
https://www.toolstation.com/axiom-switched-socket/p88746

 

[Figurehead]

Then don't just drill a hole and poke the flex through to whatever.

That's not an issue, because I have done research and asked advice.

I know that I am using the correct cable for the rating of the induction hob...I know that I have correct sizing for wiring up the cabling in the existing double gang metal box without resorting using a non isolated double socket which you were recommending.

I could have patched up the plaster and put two single sockets on the wall instead, a 45A cooker plate and a spurred 13A single socket, but seeing that it will be behind the fitted single oven it will be a darned better 'cowboy' job than what you are suggesting.

 

[EFLImpudence]

No it won't. The problem is drilling a hole and poking the flex through.

Why are you here if you know so much?

 

[Figurehead]

For once, thank you a sensible response, I was not aware that such metal boxes existed. So is it ok to spur the 13A mains plug off the 45A cooker plate with 2.5mm t&e cabling?

 

[Figurehead]

No it won't. The problem is drilling a hole and poking the flex through.

Why are you here if you know so much?

I don't know so much, just your initial comment was hardly inspiring advice.

 

[EFLImpudence]

It compared exactly to what you said you intended to do.

 

[Figurehead]

It compared exactly to what you said you intended to do.

I actually asked advice about what I intended to do initially on here....one of the reasons I do not like both coming on these forums is snarky comments before anyone comes up with any useful advice....thank you for finally pertaining to some.....so I will ask one final question again.

If I do it your way, is it ok to spur off the 45A Cooker outlet plate with 2.5mm t&e cable to the 13A single socket? Thank you.

 

[EFLImpudence]

If I do it your way, is it ok to spur off the 45A Cooker outlet plate with 2.5mm t&e cable to the 13A single socket? Thank you.

Yes.

Be aware the dual back box is slightly wider than the double.

 

[Figurehead]

Yes.

Be aware the dual back box is slightly wider than the double.

I gathered that would be the case, won't be much of an issue chiseling out the aperture a little wider. I will definitely go about it this way. I appreciate the advice, if you worked on your 'bedside manner' a bit you would totally be a star, thank you.