Downlights - lath plaster - Firehoods.

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Is it ok to fit 240v downlights into lath and plaster ceilings? (for risk of fire).

Yes you can, but check on the specs, look for the F rated wattage, this is the max wattage you can use, in a normally flammable material, i.e. timber laths. Chances are you'll be limited to 35w bulbs.

P.S. can't remember about the fire hoods, I suspect you will need separate hoods, but i'm not too sure on that.
 
Is it ok to fit 240v downlights into lath and plaster ceilings? (for risk of fire).

Yes you can, but check on the specs, look for the F rated wattage, this is the max wattage you can use, in a normally flammable material, i.e. timber laths. Chances are you'll be limited to 35w bulbs.

P.S. can't remember about the fire hoods, I suspect you will need separate hoods, but i'm not too sure on that.

Thanks for that, ive always fitted hoods, but TLC seem to suggest they arent needed?
 
Why would fire hoods be needed?

I'm pretty sure flammable lath and plaster ceilings are not used as a fire barrier.
 
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Why would fire hoods be needed?

I'm pretty sure flammable lath and plaster ceilings are not used as a fire barrier.

sorry, to be clear, i mean for protection for loft insulation, or any insulation for that matter.
 
I was thinking of the hoods/covers, that prevent the insulation getting too close to the fitting, and not fire barrier cones/hoods.
 
As the ceiling is lath & plaster and therefore quite elderly it's bound not to have a 'fire-rating' as such - other than its natural ability to withstand flames for a certain period. So, the question of hoods or FR fittings just doesn't come into it.

There's a good deal of confusion over this downlight subject: with many believing that the fitting itself might be the cause of a fire. So it might, but that isn't the point. The thing is, that in the event of a fire in a particular space, whatever the cause, that the ceiling and walls should contain that fire for a certain minimum period sufficient to allow the occupiers to evacuate the property.

Fire hoods are 'old hat'. They just stifle the lamp and prevent the loss of heat that the lamp needs to survive, leading to premature lamp failure.


Lucia.
 
Can't say never looked at the photo's. I assumed(possibly incorrectly but as it turns not) that Mr xr4x4 would not be daft enough, to install a fire stop above a fire rated fitting. With that assumption I said it may be necessary to install some form of mechanical protection against the surrounding insulation BUT I was not too sure of it!
 
Are you sure you want to fit downlights??
I predict a change of plan part way through trying to cut the first hole.

xr4x4 - I suggest you don't unbox the lights.

Quite agree! The fire aspect in a domestic situation is largely irrelevant, the simple truth is that it's a complete pain to drill lath and plaster and get neat holes suitable for downlights.

Loads of times we've had to cut holes out of ceilings, fitting joist width plasterboard squares, fixed to short timber laths and then skimmed into the original plasterwork. Dozens of them!

But that was back in the days of 'standard' downlight fittings, before the enclosed type was born.

I don't know how folks afford the leckie with downlights. We fitted 400 once to a big house. Imagine the bill! Even an ordinary lounge with say a dozen lamps (12 x even 35w is 420w), compared to the old fashioned center fitting with a single 100w bulb. .

Not exactly environmentally friendly.
 
And even if you don't care about the environment, and are so barmy that you don't accept the problems of man-induced climate change, and can afford the bills, how can you not feel in every fibre of your body that it is just wrong to install something less efficient and less fit for purpose than what it replaces?

Mankind has, on a macro level, survived and prospered through advancements, not retrogressions.
 

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