Drain cover in middle of bathroom floor

I agree it would be much better if the rim of the cover was level with the floor, but short of digging it up and re-bedding it there's not much can be done. So there's good bodges and bad bodges :)
 
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I agree it would be much better if the rim of the cover was level with the floor, but short of digging it up and re-bedding it there's not much can be done. So there's good bodges and bad bodges :)

Does it mean that the SLC option is not viable, though? Or is it still a good idea but I just need to build a temporary higher rim around the hatch to stop it flowing in?
 
What I would do is take the cover (hatch) outside, level it and fill with SLC, leave to set. Then refit cover, and build up to level using layers of cheap vinyl tiles.
 
What I would do is take the cover (hatch) outside, level it and fill with SLC, leave to set. Then refit cover, and build up to level using layers of cheap vinyl tiles.

I understand that part, but what I'm wondering is how to level the rest of the floor without it all just pouring down into the drain. The entire hatch assembly (the outer fixed rim plus the removable lid part) is slightly below the level of the concrete floor.

In general, how does one stop SLC from running into areas it shouldn't, do we use some kind of putty to build little barriers, perhaps?
 
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Ah I see what you mean now. In the past I've used timber temporarily fixed then sealed with silicone or caulk.
 
Ah I see what you mean now. In the past I've used timber temporarily fixed then sealed with silicone or caulk.

OK, thanks. That might work, then. I've tried soaking the adhesive with water for a few hours but it doesn't really separate from the floor below, so it seems I may have to try the SLC option.

Does this diagram make sense?

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That's the final arrangement I anticipate. I'd put down some battens as you described, sealing the gaps, to fence off the whole drain cover area plus a couple of inches beyond, then pour the SLC.

Then I'll fill in the recess of the hatch itself and top it with some ply that comes level with the surrounding SLC. Then put vinyl down over the whole lot, probably tiling over the joint between ply and SLC, meaning I'd had to cut the vinyl in future (unlikely to happen, and easy enough to repair).

Are we getting somewhere?
 
Looks good, but personally I'd cut the vinyl to allow removal at the point of laying the floor. But it's your house and your choice!
 
Looks good, but personally I'd cut the vinyl to allow removal at the point of laying the floor. But it's your house and your choice!

I'll have to see what pattern and type of vinyl I use and how conspicuous the join will end up being. I'll be screwing the plywood cover down into plugs in the concrete around the drain hatch, so to make it quickly accessible I'd have to leave those screw heads exposed as well, I suppose, or else still I'd have to damage the vinyl to gain access.

I'll have to wait until I have all the bits ready as I'll need to juggle various other issues such as removing/replacing the toilet and stuff like that. Bathrooms require some planning... I can't let this drag on for six months like one of my bedrooms did!
 
Bathrooms require some planning... I can't let this drag on for six months like one of my bedrooms did!

I'm in the middle of a kitchen refurb at the moment and I've injured my shoulder, so it's going to do the same for me unfortunately... know the feeling...
 
Bathrooms require some planning... I can't let this drag on for six months like one of my bedrooms did!

I'm in the middle of a kitchen refurb at the moment and I've injured my shoulder, so it's going to do the same for me unfortunately... know the feeling...

Sorry to hear that, hope you repair yourself soon. I didn't have a good excuse like that, I was (am) just an idiot and had (have) no idea what I'm doing.
 
:LOL: I was like that when I started doing DIY, adequate plumbing knowledge but very little else... No it's not a serious injury, just a muscle strain (that'll teach me to do 'mans work' lol) but will have to have a couple of weeks off at the minimum and then be careful not to aggravate it. Fortunately friends and family have offered to help me out with the heavy stuff.
 
Wickes SLC:

"This product will not work over existing tile adhesive as this will not adhere correctly."


:?:
 
Ah, guess you're a bit stuck then - must admit I don't know the answer there. Maybe ask over on the flooring forum?

Sorry I can't be more help on this one.
 
Here's an idea - since the floor is presumably level (the previous tiler was happy with it and I noticed no issues myself) but now simply not flat due to the old adhesive, could I just scrape down the adhesive as best I can (it won't come off as such but the high points do grind down) and then put down some thin foam underlay like we use under laminate flooring, before a layer of ply?

That would presumably let the ply sit more comfortably on the bumpy surface and also stop and grinding/creaking that I fear would occur. The ply would be screwed down through the underlay into the concrete.

Perhaps not the right way to do it but it might work alright. I guess I need a DPM as well?
 
I have to be honest I have no experience of laying ply on floors. I'm guessing what looks like a simple task could have more to it than one would expect.

One thing that does spring to mind is, if water gets between the vinyl tiles, what would happen to the ply there?
 

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