I then systematically switched each outlet on to see what was being consumed and what I found astounded me.
A Microwave oven in Standby consumed 85 watts.
A Fridge in standby, with no compressor running and door shut (no light on was confirmed) consumed 60 watts.
An Upright freezer with no compressor running and door shut consumed 50 watts.
Internet Router 45 watts.
Complete and utter rubbish - except perhaps the freezer.
As has been pointed out, these clip on monitors do not, and cannot, measure energy or power. There are some more sophisticated ones which can, but they are easy to spot as they ALWAYS have a plug in element to measure voltage and to get a phase reference for power factor. I'm not sure I'd go along with BAS's suggestion of them being banned, but I;d sure support the banning of them being called anything that suggests they actually measure power/energy.
To put things in perspective, you can connect a large capacitor across the mains and your clip on meter will tell you that it's using "power". It isn't, it's passing current, but out of phase with the voltage such that it doesn't actually consume any power (or very little). The same applies with an inductor (coil) as you might find with a big transformer with no load attached to it.
I recall many years ago as an apprentice, observing as a supposedly qualified electrician was bench testing a panel for some lighting. It comprised a 4way DB, a contactor for remote switching, and large caps for power factor correction. The supposedly qualified electrician was completely unable to comprehend why the MCBs were tripping, and refused to accept the explanation of a mere apprentice
The items you have mentioned are notable in that they will all have small switch mode power supplies. Unless well designed, these are notorious for having a very poor power factor - particularly when lightly loaded. Try them with something that actually measures power, you will find that they use a lot less than this so called energy monitor lies to you.
The freezer ? We have a frost free upright, and these have a defrost heater in the evaporator coil. The "cold" isn't transferred by anything in the storage compartment itself, but by fan circulation of air between the storage compartment and a separate compartment with the evaporator. Because the evaporator would freeze up, the controller (should) detect when it is doing so, then turn on an electric heater to defrost it and allow the water to run out - having the evaporator in a separate space means this can be done without thawing out the storage compartment. IIRC the heater in ours runs to around 125W.