draper table saw

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i have a limit of £200 pounds for a new table saw, I am thinking of getting the draper 82571 table saw, will only be doing general diy.any body any thoughts on this machine. or any that any one has used. thanks.
 
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Are you going to be attempting to rip any sheet materials with it? Personally I'd rather look for something that's going to be better, second hand.
 
no sheet materials. mostly decking boards. have had a look on ebay, heck of a choice. saw the draper, and Ryobi, both second hand, both look as new. thanks for your help.
 
no sheet materials. mostly decking boards. have had a look on ebay, heck of a choice. saw the draper, and Ryobi, both second hand, both look as new. thanks for your help.

If you can get one at the right money it'll do the job no problem for deck boards. I don't think I'd be keen on paying £200 for one though.
 
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if your cutting planks to length you need a mitre saw not a table saw
 
you will need to cut a maximum 2-3 times the supported table width when cross cutting so on a table saw iff you can get 200mm on the table your restricted to around 400-600mm in length
 
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Table saw for decking doesn't make sense, you would
be better with a circular saw.
 
You can do what you want to do with a table saw. The problems I have found with the cheap ones is that the fence tends to move slightly giving you a crappy cut. The saw blades are junk and either burn the wood or give a crappy cut. The tables are thin pressed steel and tend to flex slightly. I bought this one. https://www.screwfix.com/p/scheppach-hs100s-250mm-table-saw-230v/3600j which suffers from everything that I have mentioned but it does what I want it to do. Oh yeah the legs are thin pressed steel and wobble. There isn't enough weight to the table so when you push a large piece of wood through it tends to push the table saw along the ground. A permanent heavy cast steel table type would be fantastic BUT I do not have the room nor do I have the pennies to buy one.
 
What about a table/mitre saw combo for best of both worlds?
Jack of all trades - master of none, I'd say. You need to compromise on the blade for a starter - a blade which gives you a neat crosscut will often bog down or burn on long rips, a nice fast rip blade will be as rough as a bear's whatsit on crosscuts. Then there's the time/fiddle element. When you flip from crosscut to rip you need to undock the riving knife and reposition and lock it, then fit the crown guard then the dust extraction. The process is done in reverse when going the other way. It's tedious and slow, so you need to box clever and plan every cut to avoid wasting 5 minutes each time you change modes. Also if you are in a tight position you also need to swing the saw round 90 degrees every time you change mode so you can get the timber across. As said above - pricey.

When they appeared in the mid- to late-1970s the Elu (and later DW, Beckum and Makita) flip-overs were absolutely wonderful (I've had two over the years), BUT, that was a time when all we had available was sheet metal site saws and Ulmia/Nobex hand mitre saws. In the last 40-odd years things have changed dramatically in some areas.

TBH for decking the OP could just as well make his cross cuts with a hand-held electric rip saw and a Speed Square rather than go to the expense of buying a chop saw
 
the last ts I had was a performance power. only paid £70 10 years ago. lasted about 9 months, then the motor blew, sparks every where. I will be cutting mainly decking/gravel boards, I have plenty of these. to make some stuff for the garden.ie trellis/arches. thanks for all the replies. interesting reading.
 

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