Drayton Lifestyle Central Heating - Comes on at random times?

[Frustrated10]

Hi all.
I have been having an issue with our Drayton Lifestyle system for quite some time now. I have the water heating programmed to come on at 5.15am and 5pm - 5.40pm. However, it comes on at those times but also comes on at random times throughout the day and night. I tried keeping track of the times for a week but they didn't seem to make any sense.
If it helps, when it comes on, I press 'Advance' and it stops....for a while. Even when I switch it to 'Off', it still comes on and this has been happening for months.

Our local Gas man has installed a new circuit board but still it does this and he now doesn't have any idea why it is still doing it.

Any ideas, please?

 

[Frustrated10]

I see that I missed one specified time. Instead of 'I have the water heating programmed to come on at 5.15am and 5pm - 5.40pm', I should have put 'I have the water heating programmed to come on at 5.15am - 5.45am and 5pm - 5.40pm'

Circuit board - I'm not an electrical engineer or Gas engineer I'm afraid so I don't know what circuit board exactly.

The issue is the random times that the water heating comes on throughout the day.

 

[JohnD]

the three-port valve contains a switch that starts the pump and boiler. It is supposed to be controlled by the timer and thermostats, and operate the switch when the motor has driven the valve to an open position, but can (rarely) go wrong.

I suppose you could fault-find if you have a multimeter. It will be easier to test on the terminals in the wiring centre, if there is one.

If you don't have a three-port valve, the Lifestyle may have been set to "gravity hw" (switch on the back) and if wiring is incorrect or there is a fault, the hw may come on when the cylinder stat signals that the cylinder needs to be heated. What is the cylinder stat set to, and does it click when you turn it up and down?

 

[D_Hailsham]

Do you have any motorized valves (see below)? They are normally near the HW cylinder.

2 port valve
View media item 11762
3 port valve
View media item 5946

 

[Frustrated10]

the three-port valve contains a switch that starts the pump and boiler. It is supposed to be controlled by the timer and thermostats, and operate the switch when the motor has driven the valve to an open position, but can (rarely) go wrong.

I suppose you could fault-find if you have a multimeter. It will be easier to test on the terminals in the wiring centre, if there is one.

If you don't have a three-port valve, the Lifestyle may have been set to "gravity hw" (switch on the back) and if wiring is incorrect or there is a fault, the hw may come on when the cylinder stat signals that the cylinder needs to be heated. What is the cylinder stat set to, and does it click when you turn it up and down?

Thank you so much, that sure is appreciated. I will go and look for the switch....

 

[D_Hailsham]

Thank you so much, that sure is appreciated. I will go and look for the switch....

The switch is inside the motorized valve. You need to answer my question first (post #9) as JohnD has assumed you have a 3 port valve.

 

[Frustrated10]

Sorry about that, does this help (I appreciate that I may have got the completely wrong thing here...)

 

[JohnD]

the Drayton Lifestyle programmer has a pumped/gravity switch on the back. You have to undo the screw on the bottom and swing it out to detach it from the plug-in socket on the backplate (turn off power and read the installation instructions first).

The standardised backplate is designed so a replacement programmer can easily be plugged in, but you must compare the plug/socket wiring definitions on the installation instructions for old and new, first.

Your photo appears to show a 2-port valve, as DH suspected. There may (should) be two of them.

The switch inside the motorised valve head box is not intended to be user-accessible, but it should operate when the valve spindle turns.

 

[JohnD]

p.s.

I think I'd start by checking the cylinder stat, as it will be fairly quick and easy.

If the HW valve is sticking in the "open" position, I think it could cause the problems you describe. If you take the cover off, see if the spindle turn freely. On most recent valves, the motor and wiring assembly can be lifted off the brass valve mechanism.

 

[Hot&Cold]

How long has this problem existed ?
Does your lifestyle programmer have a red light that illuminates and goes off when you press the advance button ? What programmer is it ?
Which boiler do you have ?
The valve with the white cover could be faulty,the system could be wired incorrectly,so many but easy for an experienced boiler tech to susout

 

[JohnD]

Quite so.

Our local Gas man has installed a new circuit board but still it does this and he now doesn't have any idea why it is still doing it.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Your photo appears to show a 2-port valve, as DH suspected. There may (should) be two of them.

JohnD
I didn't suspect anything; I just didn't make assumptions (a fault of many heating engineers and DIYers).
You can see the second valve in the background.

Frustated10
(I assume the valve shown is on the pipe to the HW cylinder.)
At the other end of thee valve is a lever, which should be at the AUTO end of the slot.
1. Turn HW OFF at the programmer
2. Move the lever to the MAN end of the slot. (You should feel resistance and hear a whirring sound.)
If the lever is loose with no resistance, the valve is stuck open.
3. Release the lever. (It should move straight back to the AUTO end.)
If the lever does not move back the valve is sticking.

Check several times.

Report results.

 

[ianmcd]

FFS it is an S plan and the OP has got a gas man in , who changed the circuit board, what else could it be ????

 

[ianmcd]

Your photo appears to show a 2-port valve, as DH suspected. There may (should) be two of them.

there are two of them look again

 

[JohnD]

You can see the second valve in the background.

Ian, you're too slow.

sorry.