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drimaster HEAT wiring

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by sha256, 9 Jan 2016.

  1. Iggifer

    Iggifer

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    And why does there appear to be tails going into both wylex boards, AND a meaty T+E going from one board to the other?
     
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  3. JohnW2

    JohnW2

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    Lots of very valid questions :)

    Kind Regards, John
     
  4. Echo the husky

    Echo the husky

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    There isn't going to be enough space on the observations and recommendations page is there!
     
  5. Iggifer

    Iggifer

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    Certainly at least one page of continuations! At least the service head is tagged!
     
  6. sha256

    sha256

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    Sheesh; you guys are having a field day here. I think its fair to say the entire system needs an overhaul, and that is on the todo list; not to worry.

    So, I've got a problem. I am now testing the wiring for the stairway switch (which will feed the fan/heater). Problem is, this switch is part of a 2-way switch setup. When doing some tests with my voltage detector, I discovered that in some instances the live feed to this switch is stopped (i.e. comms, L1, L2 are dead). That is obviously a problem if it is supposed to power the drimaster. Anyone have any suggestions on what I can do ?
     
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  8. Taylortwocities

    Taylortwocities

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    What sort of detector is that then?

    Is that one of those no-contact magic wand things?
     
  9. sha256

    sha256

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    Yes; put it on the wire, and it lights up if it has voltage.
     
  10. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds

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    Those things are unreliable, and therefore depending on what you're using it for potentially very dangerous.

    Move it, or at least a proper inspection, to the top of the list. If that shower circuit has no overcurrent protection, only an RCD, then that needs resolving as a matter of great urgency.


    Given the age of your installation it is almost certain that there will be no neutral at that switch, or indeed any of the light switches in your house, so you will not be able to take the supply for the Drimaster from it or from any light switch.
     
  11. sha256

    sha256

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    Been using mine for about three years, hasn't failed me once. But yes, I need to get me a fluke.

    Thanks; quite disheartening if there is no over-current protection; paid 300 quid for the job, and it was from a niceic registered chap who looked like he knew what he was doing. I might just learn the trade and do it myself. About 85% of trademen that I've hired always do a half baked job.

    I think you may be right about this particular circuit. All the terminals were pushing voltage regardless of the fact that the light was off, which I found very peculiar. The same is not the case for the roses though. I am pulling current from the bathroom rose for some inline fans I setup awhile ago and that works perfectly. Fortunately, I have setup a junction box with some connections in the attic which is conveniently placed just above the relevant switch.
     
    Last edited: 17 Jan 2016
  12. stillp

    stillp

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    All the terminals were pushing voltage regardless, which I found very peculiar. [/QUOTE]:ROFLMAO:
     
  13. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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