And why does there appear to be tails going into both wylex boards, AND a meaty T+E going from one board to the other?
Lots of very valid questionsAnd why does there appear to be tails going into both wylex boards, AND a meaty T+E going from one board to the other?
There isn't going to be enough space on the observations and recommendations page is there!And why does there appear to be tails going into both wylex boards, AND a meaty T+E going from one board to the other?
Certainly at least one page of continuations! At least the service head is tagged!There isn't going to be enough space on the observations and recommendations page is there!And why does there appear to be tails going into both wylex boards, AND a meaty T+E going from one board to the other?
What sort of detector is that then?When doing some tests with my voltage detector,
Yes; put it on the wire, and it lights up if it has voltage.What sort of detector is that then?When doing some tests with my voltage detector,
Is that one of those no-contact magic wand things?
Move it, or at least a proper inspection, to the top of the list. If that shower circuit has no overcurrent protection, only an RCD, then that needs resolving as a matter of great urgency.Sheesh; you guys are having a field day here. I think its fair to say the entire system needs an overhaul, and that is on the todo list; not to worry.
Given the age of your installation it is almost certain that there will be no neutral at that switch, or indeed any of the light switches in your house, so you will not be able to take the supply for the Drimaster from it or from any light switch.So, I've got a problem. I am now testing the wiring for the stairway switch (which will feed the fan/heater).
Been using mine for about three years, hasn't failed me once. But yes, I need to get me a fluke.Those things are unreliable, and therefore depending on what you're using it for potentially very dangerous.
Thanks; quite disheartening if there is no over-current protection; paid 300 quid for the job, and it was from a niceic registered chap who looked like he knew what he was doing. I might just learn the trade and do it myself. About 85% of trademen that I've hired always do a half baked job.Move it, or at least a proper inspection, to the top of the list. If that shower circuit has no overcurrent protection, only an RCD, then that needs resolving as a matter of great urgency.Sheesh; you guys are having a field day here. I think its fair to say the entire system needs an overhaul, and that is on the todo list; not to worry.
I think you may be right about this particular circuit. All the terminals were pushing voltage regardless of the fact that the light was off, which I found very peculiar. The same is not the case for the roses though. I am pulling current from the bathroom rose for some inline fans I setup awhile ago and that works perfectly. Fortunately, I have setup a junction box with some connections in the attic which is conveniently placed just above the relevant switch.Given the age of your installation it is almost certain that there will be no neutral at that switch, or indeed any of the light switches in your house, so you will not be able to take the supply for the Drimaster from it or from any light switch.So, I've got a problem. I am now testing the wiring for the stairway switch (which will feed the fan/heater).
All the terminals were pushing voltage regardless, which I found very peculiar. [/QUOTE]Been using mine for about three years, hasn't failed me once. But yes, I need to get me a fluke.Those things are unreliable, and therefore depending on what you're using it for potentially very dangerous.
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