Dripping close-coupled loo...

Joined
9 May 2011
Messages
70
Reaction score
2
Country
United Kingdom
Walked into our tiled bathroom 2 days ago, and realised our tiles were squelching a bit...sealed floor (I think, certainly seems that way), small amount of water under the tiles by the loo.

Further investigations led to me spotting a drip off the trap, that ran down the woodwork and to the concrete pad/floor. Dried it off, thinking condensation..no, still dripping. Dried the underside of the tank etc..no, still doing it. Very slight.

Droplets form on the underside of the tank, then run down the pan flush moulding, drip off that onto the trap, run round the trap and drip on the floor.

I can hear the (bottom) inlet valve dripping too - fairly constant, 2 per second, near enough.

So initially I thought "overflow". Whipped the cistern lid off..it's a single button push flush, lever on the bottom of the button that pushes down on the flush mech, but not attached to it. I can see the inlet valve (looks like a normal valve to me with ballcock).

It is indeed dripping slightly. However, tank level isn't high, in fact from the blue lines round the tank (water block left by PO I think), the water has been a good 2 inches higher at some point.

What I can't see is an overflow..there's a blanked off plate on the one side, where the fill valve is on the other, apart from the the ceramic cistern is without anything obvious..not at the sides either.

The flush valve is...erm..blue/white bodied, and in the cylinder at the end where the button pushes, there is a smaller internal cylinder that rises higher...I'm guessing that's the flush actuator, and the gap between it and the "external" cylinder is an overflow..in which case it's nowhere near it.

I've read about the bolt on close-coupled leaking if they pass from tank to pan...there are no bolts in the cistern bottom internally, but there are coming through the pan..so I guess that rules it out.

Fill valve is dry on the tank outside, as is blanked off opening. Which leaves something in the close-coupled bit. When flushed it's fine, it's just when standing and filled it's dripping.

I have a plumber coming out today, but any suggestions anyway? I'm guessing the flush/cistern seal is leaking a bit at the joint suddenly..but why would it drip and not get worse when flushed, if the seal between pan and tank is going?

I can see obvious rust on the bottom of the tank on the blanked off side (mounting plate/bolts I assume..ceramic doesn't rust..), and blue staining under the tank/on the flush pan like a trickle of tainted water..which could be condensation runoff I guess, with the loo block mixed in.

If it helps, the bathroom was refitted in 1997 by the PO of the house, and the entire damn bathroom suite is often seen in Homebase..heh..no idea on what type of mech/loo manufacturer.

If anyone could explain the principle of how the heck there's an overflow on the things as well, I'd appreciate it...I'm used to the older syphon jobs with an obvious pipe on the tank..!
 
Sponsored Links
AH! :) The water is nowhere near the level it would need to be at in that case to overflow, even after dripping all night long. Why am I having a sinking feeling it's that flush valve that's started to leak...

Mind you, it was fitted in '97 according to paperwork I've found..I suppose 15 years isn't bad...
 
Sponsored Links
If the flush valve was leaking water would go into the pan.

As above, possibly the donut washer.
 
Well, that was fun!

Stopcock off, downstairs cold tap on to drain it. Unhitch the inlet on the loo, undo the 2 wingnuts (Plumber was amazed that they came off quite easily), 2 screws out the back..and yes, the donut was kaput, and the bracket underneath was very rusted.

So he put a new bracket on, tried a new foam "flat on both sides" donut..still leaked. Out to the van, came back with a "flat one edge, conical the other" job..still leaked. Then we both looked at the loo, and realised the cistern, if mounted as was, was actually off centre a few CM. The old donut bears that out - definitely not centered!

So he put it on central. Bolted it back up - holes in the wall no longer line up. Nor did the inlet piping!! Showed just how out it had been.

The plumbing was all boxed in by the PO..panel pinned. That had to be levered apart to access the piping. He then cut down the inlet copper pipe, fitted an in-line valve to it (THANK GOD!!), and put a flexi on that to the cistern. It was either that of tiddle about with small bits of copper pipe and try to form a slight bend in one. I'm fine with Flexi though.

Once we'd got the plumbing sorted out, he did 4 trial flushes..no leaks anywhere. I put some loo paper under the new piping just to be sure that it wasn't dripping at all (paranoid, and the piping was weird anyway)..seemed fine this AM, and the underside of the cistern etc - dry as a bone.

Good guy...nothing in our house is straightforward..PO was a "handyman"..it's taken me a year to resurrect most of the things he "improved" so that they actually work well/safely.

Case in point - when the stoptap as off, and the kitchen cold on - I am right in thinking a mains fed riser pipe to a cistern should be empty, or at least static level, yes? This was for a few minutes. Then it started dripping.

OK, I suspect the stoptap no longer fully isolates, given that the kitchen tap was dripping a bit too...but why then was the loo feed getting warm?

He then turned on the sink hot tap to fill a bowl to chuck in the cistern, and the cold tap on the bath (left open) started running, as well as the hot on the sink, and water coming out of the loo feed pipe. Closing the sink hot tap stopped both again.

I spent a good 20 minutes with my thumb over the pipe...not huge pressure, but definetly a buildup after a few minutes needing a towel to catch it.

Aaanyway..he was there near enough 3 hours..loo seems to be OK now leak wise..so it's all good.

I found the "PACIFIC" brand on the flush valve - I gather these are now out of production...that's a fight for the future..it works for now..heh. The inlet valve seems to drip internally a bit..not from the outlet, but from the screwed nut where the pin pushes on the diaphragm...the valve shuts down, but that bit still drips..cause for concern? It's only the odd drip.

Also, when you fire the shower up and shut it down, the valve seems to dribble momentarily...I'm fairly sure the water pressure/stoptap is back "as was"..any suggestions? It may be a teensy bit higher..there seems to be more "inital" pressure when you turn a tap on, but it settles after a second or 2..
 
Ah, in fact the missus has just e-mailled me to tell me that the shower "didn't work" this AM...freezing or scalding, and the pressure at the bathroom basin cold tap is "cr@p"..I have a feeling the pressure may actually be lower than it was, and the initial "surge" when a tap is turned on is just the built up pressure that can't then be maintained.

And this would be tripping the low pressure heater safety switch in the shower...

Sounds logical? Bloody basic Tritons..the old T100e I used to have had an LED that came on to warn you...
 
stoptap not fully open? or damaged internally so as to not let you get full flow... may be time for a new one. try a lever ballofix full bore jobbie.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top