Dry Lining

[Bahco]

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As you can see I have had to completely gut the bathroom as the plaster board was rotten.

Can anyone give me tips on how to dry line for tiling. I was going to use battens on the wall but don't know how to start to ensure the wall is square and flat.

Thanks

 

[noseall]

use dry wall adhesive - it is white and grabs like nothing else!

you would not remove it quite so easily as you have removed those skimming dabs!!

the shower areas or predominantly wet areas may require aquapanel or similar. these can be dabbed but will need additional mechanical fixing when set.

 

[Bahco]

Would it be easier using dry wall adhesive?

I am worried about not being able to get it flat and square. Those skimming dabs were a nightmare and my hands are killing me!

 

[noseall]

provided the plasterboards are fresh and stored flat, then there is no easier way of flattening an otherwise un-flat wall.

no kidding.

it is soooo easy.

make sure the adhesive is mixed firmish and buttery.

don't skimp on the dabs.

don't be too overzealous when knocking the boards back, use a longish straight edge - about 7 foot long.

pop a level onto the straight edge as you go.

wet the walls first, with water only.

dry wall adhesive does not set quickly so this affords you time to line up and tap straight subsequent boards with previous boards.

always have a bucket of water and a 4" paint brush handy.

 

[Bahco]

Thanks Noseall

If you are passing, pop in and have a look.

 

[Bahco]

always have a bucket of water and a 4" paint brush handy.

What are they for?

 

[noseall]

dabbing or dry lining is messy even for a seasoned pro.

water and a plasterers brush are essential bits of kit.

any unwanted smears, blobs, squeezed out splurges should be wiped off before they set.

try not to leave too much residue though or else the self adhesive scrim tape won't stick.

 

[Bahco]

The self adhesive scrim tape won't stick.

I won't need any tape as i shall be tiling straight onto the board.

Thanks for your help.

 

[noseall]

Thanks Noseall

If you are passing, pop in and have a look.

i rarely venture down the 449 any more but thanks for the invite.

 

[Richard C]

For D&D, space the adhesive around 250mm apart (I use a wooden kitchen spoon) & put an intermediate one in around the edges of the board for extra support. I would still tape the joins, just skim it over with some tile adhesive as you tile & use decent adhesive & grout, not the budget DIY shed carp; I will only use BAL but it's not cheap!

Don’t forget, either Aquapanel those wet areas or tank the PB; if you don’t you’ll be doing it all again in just a few years, maybe sooner! If you initially D&D the Aquapanel, make a mental note of where the adhesive is & put the (through) fixings through the adhesive dot when it’s set & don’t overdo it; if you miss the adhesive or over tighten the fixings, the Aquapanel will crack; not ideal!

 

[jbonding]

I won't need any tape as i shall be tiling straight onto the board.

For the sake of a couple of quid I would still tape all the joints especially the internal angles because there might be slight movement and it will show up on the joints.