Dry Lining

[newbie chippie]

Hi, im not sure if this is the right place to post my questions so i apologize if its not.

I am planning to do some dry lining in my own house, i have done some dry lining a few years back during my laboring days, but there a few finer details i would like some help with.

First of all i am unsure about the window reveals (i believe you call them), i have PVC windows there and i dont want overlap the PVC frame if you get me? SO i was wondering if was a good idea to hack back the plaster and bond the plasterboard directly to the newly exposed masonry? f not what is the standard practice here? As the rooms being dry lined are upstairs removeing the frames etc isnt really an option?

If i batten the walls and fix the plasterboard directly to the battens, do i screw thorough right on the edges of the plaster boards?

Also if i batten the walls, do i have to use insulation? What is the standard practices with insulation?

I hope all my questions make sense, and if you have any other tips that would be awesome.

P.S. sorry for the war and peace posting.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Best thing to prevent you PVC window frames being covered is to remove plaster if plaster is failing and dot'n'dab boards around the reveals.
If the plaster is not failing you may get away with an over skim.

I assume the frames upstairs are the door frames?
What sort of walls are you dry-lining?
What are you going on top of?
Do you need additional Insulation?
If insulations is not needed and the surface area is sound, instead of using battens, you could dot'n'dab.
You could also consider different types of boards that have thermal qualities if insulation is needed. Something like thermaline or K18 systems.

 

[newbie chippie]

Hi, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.

Ah i thought that would be the best way to go with regards to reveals, but i found a lot of conflicting info through my Google search on it, so i thought i best ask.

Sorry i wasn't very clear. By frames i meant the window frames.
With regards to the door frames i am assuming i leave the door frames in place and remove the architraves etc? Then once i have plaster boarded the rooms put back/replace the architraves etc?

All the walls are masonry walls, with the original plaster in place. But i am having new services put in place (electrics/plumbing) so thought it would be easier to batten out the walls so i can run the services in the void, rather than chasing out everything. Does this sound like a good plan or would you recommend dot and dab anyway?

I'm not entirely sure if i need insulation tbh, the noise levels and heating are fine atm and it would be cheaper to not use insulation, but it thought if there was a void i would have to insulate it? Again what would you advise on this?

Cheers

 

[WestmidsChippy]

newbie CHIPPY?

Your 100% a newbie and nothing to do with a chippy!

what finish are you looking for? if your looking for the dogs ****** then hack it all back to the brickwork and start from scratch with dot+dab.

If your looking for a resonable finish then providing the plaster already on the walls is sound then clean down and skim.

You planning on changing the upc frames at a later date then either way you'ill be patching up. (no matter what any other professional tosser has to say about it

come on chipp

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The problem is if you do dot'n'dab without removing existing plaster, you will bring the wall level beyond your door frame widths, so just can't put arcs back on unless the door frame width is addressed/altered.
If the base coat plaster is sound, it would be a wise idea to do as WestmidsChipy has suggested. Clean walls down remove any loose plaster repair if needs be, PVA prime walls and over-skim the lot.

 

[newbie chippie]

newbie CHIPPY?

Your 100% a newbie and nothing to do with a chippy!

Well the clue is kinda in the name lol Im not ashamed about being a new apprentice, we all have to start somewhere Thanks for the good advice though.

@ Prenticeboyofderry Ah i see, i hadnt even thought about the finished wall level being proud etc i was always thinking from a stud wall point of view tbh

The plaster in place isn't great tbh so i guess hacking it away and dot and dab is the way to go,

do i have to chase the cables if i dot and dab? or can i just get away with using a channel or an oval conduit?

Also am i right that if i dot and dab, i need to screw through into the walls as well?

Thanks

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

do i have to chase the cables if i dot and dab? or can i just get away with using a channel or an oval conduit?

You can chase but no deeper than one third of depth of brick/block on the vertical and one sixth on the horzontal.
You can use capping to hold cable in place or use oval conduit if you wished. But you can also get away with just clipping the cables and boarding straight over them.
Make sure they are installed in the safe zones. //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:installation_techniques:walls

Also am i right that if i dot and dab, i need to screw through into the walls as well?
Thanks

You can use that method as an additional mechanical fixing, but not a method I use, the wall board adhesive will do the trick on it's own.
It is normally seen used, when your boards are thermal backed like thermaliine boards.
But if you wanted to, it is your time and will only improve the fixing.