Dry-walling over a lip (beam)

[ryaninblack]

Hi all, i am currently dry-walling a stud wall, the studs are all fine but running along the top of the studs is a horizontal supporting beam, which lips over the studs by about 15mm, my Dad (a builder) said to cut strips of drywall and screw to the studs to act as spacers, i have done this but it still does not cover it, i then told my Dad about this and he says use two strips of drywall over the studs instead of one, but obviously this will simply swap the lips around, taking it from the beam lipping over the drywall, to the drywall lipping the beams.

As a tester i have placed single strips of drywall to a couple of studs (remember there is now a 5mm lip!) and then simply boarded over the lip, the drywall is solid and rigid with no wobble or movement at all, but the top 30cm of the wall (where the beam is) comes out ever so slightly more than the rest of the wall (where the studs are), therefore, the wall is not 'straight edge' flat, the plasterer is coming round in a week, and what i would like to know is will he be able to make the wall flat? i would call him and ask as he is a family friend but it is 2am on Saturday night, i am on the night shift, and my only opportunity to board the wall before he comes round is at 7am in the morning which means when i finish my shift i need to go home armed with the knowledge to be able to crack on, your thoughts please?

Ryan

 

[1john]

Double up with packers and bond the board to the beam with adhesive.

 

[ryaninblack]

Great idea! thanks, will the adhesive definitely adhere to the beam? as i was told not to plaster onto wood? i understand they are different but am just wanting to confirm that it will.

 

[ryaninblack]

And are we talking about drywall adhesive or wood?

 

[1john]

I'd use something like solvent free pink grip, you can blob it out and it doesnt sag and run like the solvent based stuff, I have never tried it but should imagine board addy would fail on timber.

 

[Skimmers]

hilti gun it with board plates sorted

 

[ryaninblack]

Is this the stuff you mean: http://www.tool-net.co.uk/p-348672/...nt-free.html?gclid=CKvJsIWSy7YCFRLLtAodbRIAGQ

I have bags of British Gypsum drywall adhesive lying around, would this not work with a coat of PVA bonding on the beam?

Thanks for the response.

Ryan

 

[1john]

Yeah that stuff, I wouldn't risk the board addy tbh.

 

[ryaninblack]

I know its probably not ideal but 85% of the boards will be secured to the studs, with the adhesive only being used for the small section at the top, so the strength will come from the screws.

 

[1john]

If the bond does fail, what will happen at the join above? Haha, I dont need convincing, I know what I would and wouldn't do, If your happy to do it another way then go for it

 

[ryaninblack]

Thanks, i think i will go for this.

Will i need to use the pink stuff as if i am 'dotting and dabbing'? ie, big, fat dollops spaced apart so that when the boards are screwed into the studs they are flat and more importantly solid with the beams?

Lastly does this stuff dry solid?

Thanks again.

 

[ryaninblack]

When i said i would go with this i meant i will go with what you say, i was unsure, which is why i asked in the first place.

Will the pink stuff dry rock-solid? also does it come in powder form as i am a little wary of using stuff out of a tube?

Also do i use it as if dotting and dabbing? (see previous post)

Thanks.

 

[ryaninblack]

Also what makes it 'pink'? is it anything special or will any solvent free adhesive do?

And will i need to slap a coat of diluted PVA onto the beam beforehand?

Ryan

 

[1john]

As you have 5mm to make up I would just extrude two 10mm deep beads the continual length. I dunno why it's pink, you can use grip fill solvent free if you like of any other grab adhesive. They do set hard yes. Dont PVA, theres no need.

 

[ryaninblack]

Brilliant! i am now ready to roll, thank you so much for your time and advice.