Drylining 60m2 garage ceiling

[RichardKn]

My garage has a beam and block ceiling. To make it 'nicer' I plan to install a plasterboard ceiling under it. With it being so big (roughly 8m square) I'm not sure how to go about it.

The two options I see are:

1. Wooden battons screwed to the beams, then attach plasterboard to those. I'd like room to run some LED spots though, hence battons would be 5cm to 6cm thick.
2. Some sort of metal framed plasterboard system (British Gypsum offer one...no doubt there are others)

Is one solution better than the other? Or is there a better way?

Thanks

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Is the garage attached/under the house?
I ask this with regards to fire prevention and downlight installtion.
I assume by spot lights, you actually mean downlights?
I would suggest you select your downlights first, before forming the ceiling out, as these lights do need ventilation around and above the cans/fittings. Downlight cans vary in depth and generally need 25mm+ ventilation above them and 150mm around them.
So if the ceiling require thermal insulation, fitting downlights will compromise this. There are methods/equipment available to create ventilation and light fittings that the manufacture state can be covered by this.
So do some research first.

 

[RichardKn]

You're right, they are downlights. The two I've found interesting so far are 50mm (https://www.downlightsdirect.co.uk/click-inceptor-micro.html) and 40mm respectively and are both LED. You're right on selecting the lights first, to be fair I hadn't expected to need so much depth.

It is indeed a garage under a house and there will be no insulation above the plasterboard. Above the beam and block there is then a 10cm screed and all walls are breeze block or terracotta block for internal walls.

My issue is about how to create the ceiling. Any ideas on that?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I would have have thought the mean issue would have been, to prevent the spread of fire/smoke?

With regards to ceiling have you got a picture of the ceiling area, as I do not know what is meant by block/beam, is this a solid construction? That would require masonry fixings?

 

[RichardKn]

I'll post a picture later today. Here's how it works though: http://forterra.co.uk/structural-precast-concrete-flooring-stairs/beam-block-flooring

It's comprised of re-enforced beams tied into a steel 'belt' at the edges which runs around the entire property. Between those beams are concrete blocks like breeze blocks but designed for the job. A slurry is put on top follozed by a 10cm screed.

It's very solid and would require masonry fittings.

Thanks for your help.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You will need some kind of suspended ceiling, to create a void to allow depth of downlights, as the area span is quite large, i would propose that casoline MF (or similar) method was used.

 

[John D v2.0]

Are you thinking maybe the existing ceiling is non compliant @PrenticeBoyofDerry ? If the existing ceiling meets fire and thermal regs then adding pb and down lights won't cause a problem. But as you say don't let the insulation overheat the down lights if you add some more.

 

[RichardKn]

Here's a picture of the existing beam and block ceiling under which I want to put a more aesthetically pleasing one.


Gasoline MF is the British Gypsum one I've come across myself.

Has anyone fitted a suspended ceiling with such a system and if so, is it easier / quicker than wooden battons screwed to the beams?

 

[Doggit]

It's a garage, and if you intend to keep it like that, then insulation above the plasterboard isn't necessary. There's not much risk of fire from the LED spots, and certainly not of anything getting through the beam and block floor. If you use wooden battens to fix the plasterboard through, then you just need a few notches etc to get the cables across the ceiling, and the battens would hold the cables up better prior to plasterboard going up. The only problem with the using battens, is working out where the spots are going to go, so you don't pu a batten in the wrong place. Supsended ceilings give more flexibility though.

You can fix the battens quite easily using concrete screws, and just drill into the blocks using an SDS drill.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If you have a suspended or ceiling where a void is required to accommodate the downlight cans, then there should be enough room to route cables without holing or notching joists.
Although led downlights do not dissipate as much heat as the halogen lamps, they still require ventilation and if the lampholders allow for the lamps to be either led or halogen, considerations need to be accessed on that scenario.
But I would assume that existing situation would comply to fire regulations already.
I agree that a ceiling plan of the lights location, is best made before you form your ceiling joists.
What I don't understand, is if the garage is to continue to be used as a garage, what practicality downlights would have, waste of time in my opinion. They do look more aesthetically pleasing than a tube light but serve no other benefits, unless restricted head room, then you would say dropping the ceiling height would be best avoided.

 

[RichardKn]

Thanks for the replies. I'll be going with some sort of metal framework for the ceiling. Lafarge also make a good looking one I've become aware of and with fitting that fit between the ceiling blocks - no drilling required, hence even quicker.

As for why the downlights....I don't need a 60m2 garage. But I wouldn't mind a games area and maybe even a small 'bar' in there!

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If you are to have a bar/games area would the location need heating?

 

[RichardKn]

It turns out Lafarge make a galvanised steel suspended ceiling system designed for beam and block. The + is that rather than having to drill (aside from the rails around the walls) all ceiling fittings are simply hammered between the existing blocks thereby making it much easier.

 

[cjard]

If you are to have a bar/games area would the location need heating?

Which means it's heading towards being a habitable room, needs insulating, whole thing done dodgy without notification to building control, reducing value of house during a frustrated sale etc. Wonderful!

 

[RichardKn]

It's a garage! There's

• no insulation to floor, walls or ceiling
• no windows (just a side door and two opening garage doors)
• no water
• no heating
• basic electrics
• a bare concrete floor

Granted I plan to install a ceiling, add a ping-pong table and a fridge. No doubt they'll look lovely beside my car!

That's not a habitable space or anywhere near. Now if you want to chuck me £100k I could change that