Earth Block Question

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Hi All

It has been recommended to me by an electrician that recently tested my house electrics that I should look to replace the current earth terminal on the consumer board with a proper earth block. I forgot to ask him what he meant by a proper earth block.

Are there any specifications of Earth block that I should use? Does it need to be covered? I have found these ones and am wondering if this is what I should be using? http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLEB8.html

Thanks

Jody
 
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Yep, thats the sort of thing which are used for Main Earthing Terminals. You should also put a "Safety electrical connection, do not remove" label adjacent to it too.
Are you doing this under the supervision of the electrician? I ask as to do something wrong could result in a dangerous installation.
 
What are you using at the moment?

If you're removing that and replacing it, make sure you do it when nobody else is in, or that you tell them not to touch or use anything electrical, as for a while you'll have no earth.

And could you post a picture of your incoming cable(s) and cutout - it's possible that your neighbour's earth runs through your house...
 
It's better to isolate the installation if your altering the MET arrangements.
 
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I think it might have been Lec who said about the time when he disconnected a bonding conductor only to find that owing to a broken DNO neutral, the bonding was acting as a return path for the premises upstream resulting in a big flash!
 
That 8-way block is IMO ideal for a domestic installation You will usually use at least four of the holes (suppliers earth or spike; CU; Water; Gas and it does no harm to have some spare holes for your future garage or whatever.

The holes at each end are a bit bigger than the others, so use these for your biggest cables.

It does not need to be covered. You can screw it to the backboard where the meter and supplier's fuse are.

Tighten all the screws when you fit it, then again a few days later - copper cable is fairly soft and will have moulded a bit under pressure from the screws

Probably the easiest way to get a durable "Safety Electrical Connection do Not Remove" label is to buy a pipe bonding clamp, they come with such a metal label attached. might cost 50p if you just buy one. Has holes you can put a mounting screw or bolt through.

You will be needing these on your incoming metallic services (water, gas, oil) anyway if you have not already got them

Yes, we like pictures
 
Hi All

It has been recommended to me by an electrician that recently tested my house electrics that I should look to replace the current earth terminal on the consumer board with a proper earth block.

just out of curiosity, why would this be recommended?
 
perhaps to replace a bunch of wires twisted together round a nail?

Or an old single-screw and washer terminal?
 
Many thanks for all of your replies, I have attached a picture of what is currently in place //www.diynot.com/network/JMFUK/albums/1070/4225.

The main recommendation was to upgrade the earth cable from 10mm to 16mm into the CU and ensure a 16mm earth to the Mains Water since whilst it is earthed it is not clear to an inspector where it is earthed, so I just need to find that out and ensure it is 16mm. He said that while that was being done he would probably look to put in a proper Earth Block. I am not sure what is wrong with the current one, apart from it is pretty old. I don't think my neighbours earth comes via my house but I will definitely check that before doing anything.

I had the electrician out to test all of the electrics in the house, insulation, continuity, impedance tests etc etc. mainly for my piece of mind but also before for a part P cert is done for the Building Regs appointed people who will be coming out to do this once these little bits are done. The part P cert is for some bathroom works which I have just completed. I want to make sure there are no problems.

I am thinking it will pretty much be a like for like replacement, of course taking into account doing it safely with the previous suggestions. Since the existing connection tested out ok today, as long as everything is correctly connected into the new earth block, nothing is really different, or am I missing something?

Again many thanks for all of your replies.
 
Jesus Crist on a motorbike.

Who attached a BS951 clamp (designed for copper gas/water pipes) onto the lead sheath of the electricity suppliers incoming cable!

951 clamps work through compression, what happens if this effect causes a short in the suppliers cable?

VERY BAD THINGS.
 
Who attached a BS951 clamp (designed for copper gas/water pipes) onto the lead sheath of the electricity suppliers incoming cable!

Someone who also didn't know how to attach the "BS951 Safety electrical connection - do not remove" label to it properly, nor tighten up the retaining nut.
 
It is worth asking the supplier* if they can provide you with an updated earthing terminal. They might upgrade you to PME. It might be free or it might cost you £50 or, but it will be worth it.




*You can write to the address on your electricity bill. Although it will actually be another company that carries out the work, you are their customer and they are responsible for knowing who to pass on the request to. You are under no obligation to know who the other companies involved are. The advantage of a letter is that it is less likely to be fobbed off than a phone call, and will be logged and tracked while it gets passed along to the right person. The call centre in Mumbai will not know what to do.
 
Thanks for pointing this out, it did seem wrong.... It is an old house that we moved into, had several extensions over the years and I think alot of work has been carried out on the electrics that are questionable to say the least, hence the testing today.....

On your response to the earthing arrangements on the incoming supply sheath I think I will get someone in to sort this out ASAP. It is interesting that the testing today did not highlight this as an issue :(

JohnD thanks for you advice on who to contact... I will do this right away. Definitly £50 well spent. I need to get them out in any case to remove the old clock and tails which many moons ago would have been for the storage heaters.
 

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