Hello,
The age old question of how to connect an electric oven arises again.
So let me first begin with a picture, my current cooker circuit setup...
(Sorry about orientation, I took the picture the right way up?)
Starting at the consumer unit, I have a 32A breaker protecting a radial circuit wired in 6mm cable, via an isolator switch (no additional 13A socket) to a cooker connection unit. A single socket to power the gas hob ignition is spurred off of the ccu.
The oven is the Miele H2561 BP, max load 3.6kW, and came with a pre-installed flex and the following instructions...
"Connection of this appliance should be made via a fused connection unit or a suitable isolator."
The flex looks to be 1.5mm.
So obviously changes need to be made. Now before going any further, I'd just like to mention that in order to make both the fuse in the fcu and the fuse in the plug (for the hob ignition) accessible without having to pull out the oven, I'm going to have to install new components in the adjacent cupboard. Not my preference, but I just don't have the necessary clearance from the hob above.
I have a few questions on this, so it'll be easier if I assign them numbers.
1. The Cooker Connection Unit
Should I stay or should I go?
I was thinking of leaving it as is, disconnecting the 13A socket and extending the circuit by running some 6mm through to the back of the cupboard on the left and connecting to a FCU inside there.
2. The FCU
The max load on the oven is 3.6kW (15.65A).
Taking into account diversity results in 11.70A.
So I'm thinking a 13A FCU will do the job. However the oven specs on the website (not in manual) suggest a fuse rating of 16A. Should I be concerned?
3. The 13A socket for hob ignition
As I mentioned earlier, I'd like to make the plug for the hob ignition accessible so I can change the fuse if it blows. So was planning to move it into the cupboard alongside the FCU.
Assuming the FCU has 6mm cable coming into the supply side, will I be able to run a spur in 6mm to the socket using the same terminals?
Or would I be better off running some 2.5mm from the load side of the fcu to the socket. Bearing in mind the flex for the oven will be connected to the load side also. The flex is crimped at the ends.
Is there another better way altogether?
4. Components in the cupboard
If everything above is ok, will it be easy enough to run 6mm cable and flex to the fcu directly through the back of the backbox, so no cables are showing in the cupboard (aside from the hob plug and flex of course). Will the layout of the box allow that route or will it be too awkward?
Will I need an extra deep backbox?
I think that about covers it.
Any advice welcome.
Thanks
d.
The age old question of how to connect an electric oven arises again.
So let me first begin with a picture, my current cooker circuit setup...
(Sorry about orientation, I took the picture the right way up?)
Starting at the consumer unit, I have a 32A breaker protecting a radial circuit wired in 6mm cable, via an isolator switch (no additional 13A socket) to a cooker connection unit. A single socket to power the gas hob ignition is spurred off of the ccu.
The oven is the Miele H2561 BP, max load 3.6kW, and came with a pre-installed flex and the following instructions...
"Connection of this appliance should be made via a fused connection unit or a suitable isolator."
The flex looks to be 1.5mm.
So obviously changes need to be made. Now before going any further, I'd just like to mention that in order to make both the fuse in the fcu and the fuse in the plug (for the hob ignition) accessible without having to pull out the oven, I'm going to have to install new components in the adjacent cupboard. Not my preference, but I just don't have the necessary clearance from the hob above.
I have a few questions on this, so it'll be easier if I assign them numbers.
1. The Cooker Connection Unit
Should I stay or should I go?
I was thinking of leaving it as is, disconnecting the 13A socket and extending the circuit by running some 6mm through to the back of the cupboard on the left and connecting to a FCU inside there.
2. The FCU
The max load on the oven is 3.6kW (15.65A).
Taking into account diversity results in 11.70A.
So I'm thinking a 13A FCU will do the job. However the oven specs on the website (not in manual) suggest a fuse rating of 16A. Should I be concerned?
3. The 13A socket for hob ignition
As I mentioned earlier, I'd like to make the plug for the hob ignition accessible so I can change the fuse if it blows. So was planning to move it into the cupboard alongside the FCU.
Assuming the FCU has 6mm cable coming into the supply side, will I be able to run a spur in 6mm to the socket using the same terminals?
Or would I be better off running some 2.5mm from the load side of the fcu to the socket. Bearing in mind the flex for the oven will be connected to the load side also. The flex is crimped at the ends.
Is there another better way altogether?
4. Components in the cupboard
If everything above is ok, will it be easy enough to run 6mm cable and flex to the fcu directly through the back of the backbox, so no cables are showing in the cupboard (aside from the hob plug and flex of course). Will the layout of the box allow that route or will it be too awkward?
Will I need an extra deep backbox?
I think that about covers it.
Any advice welcome.
Thanks
d.
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