electric shower-more power!!!

[JohnD]

I'm with Ricarbo. Turning to the question originally asked:
"tonight i had to turn the temp up to 10 to get a decent temp"
so, a cold November evening... the water may be 5 to 10 degrees colder than it was in Summer, so you'll need more power to heat it to the same temperature.

Also your bathroom might be chillier, so you'll feel the cold more.

"is the unit on its way out"
I don't think you've found a fault in your shower.

im used to nice power showers
sadly, an instant electric shower isn't going to give a large flow of very hot water, like a stored water heater which has plenty of time to heat up a cylinder of water which gushs out in 10 minutes.

 

[muckerd]

i] im used to nice power showers[/i]
sadly, an instant electric shower isn't going to give a large flow of very hot water, like a stored water heater which has plenty of time to heat up a cylinder of water which gushs out in 10 minutes.[/quote]

Thanks for the last 2 posts. I know using a baxi with only a fortic tank will not give me much shower power but all i was asking was if the more power you had i.e. 11KW electric shower the more flow you had. Im sure its only winter that has cooled my shower down but ive always wanted to know how to get a harder flow out of the shower without major stress. BTW I have a converted loft with no place for a hot water tank. Can i use an inline pump of some sort to plumb into the cold water supply just before the shower unit. That way i could keep my old shower and just spend money on a pump?? BTW i didnt mean for softus to get his back up. Im no joker mate as im not a plumber but also not made of money to get ur rich asses around to my house only to tell me i need this that and the other in order to drain me dry of funds. And im a Carpenter so i know alot of plumbers and know about ur ways.....

 

[JohnD]

I don't think upping the water pressure with a pump will help, if you're still using an electric shower. They can heat "x" amount of water by "y" degrees. So if you increae the amount of water by say 20% then you reduce its temperature increase by 20%.

That's why the temperature control is in fact a water flow restrictor, it makes the water hotter by having less of it.

 

[muckerd]

that makes scence but i still want to know if i can up the water presure any way even if it means changing the shower unit. AND YES I WILL NOTIFI BUILDING CONTROL!!!!

 

[cozzmic]

First check that the shower doesn't have a filter on the inlet and that the water is turned on full. It could be as simple as that. If not change the shower for a higher output but upgrading your cable, isolator and fuse/breaker would probably have to be done. PS please be carefull with electrics if your attempting to do it yourself.

 

[JohnD]

sorry my mistake

 

[muckerd]

First check that the shower doesn't have a filter on the inlet and that the water is turned on full. It could be as simple as that. If not change the shower for a higher output but upgrading your cable, isolator and fuse/breaker would probably have to be done. PS please be carefull with electrics if your attempting to do it yourself.

When you say higher output i take it you mean a higher KW rating? Plus are u meaning the mains stop tap is turned on full?? if so i dearnt turn it incase it sheers off as it looks rather caked with salts and the lead pipe work isnt to good as I live in a hard water area im guessing the pipe has narrowed over the years.... isnt a simple option out there???????

 

[muckerd]

I don't think upping the water pressure with a pump will help, if you're still using an electric shower. They can heat "x" amount of water by "y" degrees. So if you increae the amount of water by say 20% then you reduce its temperature increase by 20%.

That's why the temperature control is in fact a water flow restrictor, it makes the water hotter by having less of it.

what if i changed my shower to...no that wouldnt work. I was going to say put a pump in and change the shower to a non electric running off the hot water. But as i said befor i have a silly fortic tank which has a small capasity so a pump would run dry im guessing. Please help as im getting smelly!!!

 

[Softus]

There's quite a bit of b*llsh*t being posted on this topic. Some basics:

You can install a pump on the mains without permission from the Water Regulator, but only if the flow is no more than 12.0l/minute.

The cold mains pressure, and any potential for restriction to its flow, are irrelevent for an instantaneous electric shower.

I understand that you want more flow for a given temperature, or higher temperature for a given flow, or both.

If you want a 'proper' shower, then you'll need to do some semi-serious plumbing. If you have stored hot water then you could simply run a hot supply from the cylinder (use a Surrey flange) and install a venturi shower. The Trevi Boost is an example of this type of shower.

If you don't have stored hot water, then I guess you have a combi boiler, in which case you could use the DHW output from that (combined with mains cold) to feed a shower - you would need to install check valves on the shower supplies and also install an 'ordinary' thermostatic shower mixer valve.

If you want to continue with the instantaneous electric shower option, then your next actions should be as follows:

1. Call Triton and get the specification for your shower. You need to know the flow rate for a given temperature rise.
2. Run the kitchen cold tap (fast) for one minute and then measure the temperature of the incoming water.
3. Remove the shower head, turn the temperature control to midway, run the shower into a calibrated container for a timed period, and measure the temperature of the water coming out of the shower hose.
4. Calculate the flow rate for your measured quantity of water, and the rise in temperature.
5. Work out whether or not your shower is performing as it should, by comparing the Triton figures with your measurements
6. If it isn't, then replace the heat exchanger can - Triton will sell you the part.
7. If it is performing, then buy a higher rated shower, call your electrician, and get him to fit it.
8. Stand back in amazement.

 

[muckerd]

7. If it is performing, then buy a higher rated shower, call your electrician, and get him to fit it.

Any suggestions as to which higher rated shower to use and what about building regs? Many thanks

 

[Softus]

7. If it is performing, then buy a higher rated shower, call your electrician, and get him to fit it.

Any suggestions as to which higher rated shower to use...

At the risk of being glib, you need to consult your electrician to see what your existing shower supply will support, and what needs to be done to support a higher rated one. For example, in extreme circumstances, depending on the other electrical demands in your house, the consumer unit would not be adequate.

... and what about building regs? Many thanks

All I can say is this:

The point about a shower is that it's in a "special place" in the context of Part P. If it's not a repair, or a like-for-like replacement, then I believe that it's notifiable, but your local BCO will advise you.

 

[PE]

I bought a Triton Ivory II shower from Homebase on special (they still have) - 10.5kw one for about £85. They have a 10% day next weekend also - seems pretty good value to me (quite an old model but works fine)but obviously may be new consumer units, 10mm cabling etc which does add up

 

[Jonny7]

If you don't have stored hot water, then I guess you have a combi boiler, in which case you could use the DHW output from that (combined with mains cold) to feed a shower - you would need to install check valves on the shower supplies and also install an 'ordinary' thermostatic shower mixer valve.

I have the same problem as the original post (and in common with most of the people using electric showers in this country I should think) so having a combi boiler, i've concluded that I should attempt this route first before looking at hot water tanks etc.

So I can pipe up from the hot and cold pipes in the bathroom but I think they take a bit of a pressure drop by the time they get to the bathroom, despite it only being a bungalow. And it's as easy to take the supply from closer to the boiler connections. Would it be best to run as much of the route as possible in 22mm tube? Or is the flow restrictions of the boiler the limiting factor (saw price of 22mm cu tube last night! 'kin 'ell!) I estimate about 10 metres from boiler to shower mixer valve.

Thanks,
Jon.

 

[muckerd]

It looks like I have 10mm cable already. So an up grade to 10.5Kw would be ok and up grade the RCB to 46A. If I have good or a higer flow rate when I turn the shower temp to cold im assuming that the mains flow rate isnt an issue, so a higher Kw shower will give me the extra boost i want. thanks for all the advice. im comming to a conclusion here so comments would be gratefully recived

 

[muckerd]

softus?? no comment?? ANY1!!