Electric Shower not working - Isolator switch problem?

[djwheeler]

Hi,

Hope someone can help. Went to switch on the electric shower this morning and nothing happened and when I checked the shower I noticed that the power light was not on. Check the wall mounted isolater switch (I use these words like I know what I am talking about ) and it was in the On position, so I flicked it off and back on again but this did not solve the issue. I have noticed on the isolator switch that the red light is only half lit up, normally we get a full light on but now it seems that only the right side of the light is on. Could this be a problem with the isolator switch and would it be easy to repair?

Thanks,

D

 

[ban-all-sheds]

With the power off, open up the isolator switch and look for loose and/or overheated connections.

If there are signs of overheating, then you'll need to replace the switch, and cut back the cable to past the damaged area, i.e. to where the insulation is soft and not discoloured, the copper is bright, etc.

 

[ericmark]

Have you checked at the consumer unit? With shower off and fuse blown there is often enough tracking across fuse to light a neon. If you switch shower on does the neon go out?

 

[djwheeler]

Thanks for the responses.

We haven't checked what happens to the neon when we try to switch the shower on - the only thing we do know is that no water comes out Did check the consumer unit and nothing had tripped - I did flick the fuse for the shower off and on again to no avail.

Haven't opened up the isolator switch yet, can try that when I get home tonight. Would over heating be noticeable, such as blackened cable? Presume best off switching it off at consumer unti when doing this?

Thanks,

D

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Overheating which would have done damage to the cable and/or switch would be noticeable - not necessarily "blackened", but the insulation would be hard and brittle.

And yes - power off!

 

[ericmark]

Since not a fuse but a trip my comments are likely not valid. However if due to bad connection it could be just as easy at consumer unit as shower isolator, however removing the cover from a consumer unit can expose live parts as the only isolator is often part of the consumer unit, so if no signs at shower isolator may be safer to can an electrician rather than open the consumer unit yourself.

Do remember the MCB on the consumer unit is NOT an isolator you will need to turn off the main isolator on the consumer unit normally red in colour. Or if not part of the MCB the RCD for that block of MCB's.

Also most showers will also have a RCD if not part of the consumer unit but separate device this also could be where a bad connection may be found.

Do make sure no one can put the supply back on while your working on it.

 

[djwheeler]

Thanks for this. Think I will check the isolator switch for anything obvious. If nothing can be found then may just call someone out.

Thanks,

D

 

[djwheeler]

Just an update, I opened up the isolator switch this evening to see if there was anything obvious going on. Took a few photos which I hope I have uploaded successfully but I could not see anything obvious going on. One thing that I did notice is that if I switch the shower on then the neon light on the isolator switch goes off. Am I looking at an electrician call out here?

Thanks,

D

 

[flameport]

From the picture, is looks like the switch has overheated and failed internally.

Your picture - damage just about visible at the top right:
View media item 66535
With some adjustments, the damage is far more obvious:

Untitled

• flameport
• 17 Sep 2013
• 1

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you say so.....

 

[djwheeler]

To be honest I am not entirely sure I would be comfortable replacing this even if I had to, there didn't seem to be an awful lot of give in the cables unless I was just being a little too gentle when trying to pull them out a bit. Is it significant that the isolator switch light goes out when we try to turn the shower on?

Thanks,

D

 

[riveralt]

To be honest I am not entirely sure I would be comfortable replacing this even if I had to, there didn't seem to be an awful lot of give in the cables unless I was just being a little too gentle when trying to pull them out a bit. Is it significant that the isolator switch light goes out when we try to turn the shower on?

Ericmark has already answered the neon question.

I would say 8 times out of 10 it is the isolator switch that goes and invariably it is the neutral.
You have four choices:
Either buy a multi-meter and check for 230v between L & N and L&E from the Consumer Unit to the shower including the supply and load side of the isolator. Don't do it unless you are comfortable working live.
After isolating the circuit replace the isolator switch with a new one - £7.00
After isolating the circuit replace the shower - £70+
Call an electrician - £???

 

[djwheeler]

Thanks for this, you are correct about the neon light answer, missed that. Considering that I did not understand most of what you said in your post I think we will be going down the electrician route.

Thanks,

D

 

[securespark]

If you want to double check it's a neutral issue, turn off the power to the shower circuit, check it's off then put the two blues in the same terminal, tighten it up nicely and then switch back on and see if the shower works.

 

[djwheeler]

Just to close this off, called out an electrician in the end and said that something in the isolator switch had burnt out. He said it was a cheap switch that had not been fitted properly (was fitted by bathroom fitters) and was amazed that it had lasted the 18 months that it had. Anyway has now been replaced and now all is working again .

Thanks for the help.

D