Electric shower query

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I have a 9.5kW Triton shower connected to a dedicated CU (50 amp MCB and RCD) with 10 mm twin and earth via a 50 amp isolating switch. The flow was pretty reasonable in the warmer months, but now that water temperatures have dropped, the flow is not as good as I was hoping. Hence, I'm thinking of getting a more powerful unit when time and money allow. 2 questions: Is my circuit adequate for the most powerful electric showers available, and what is the rating of the most powerful shower on the market?
 
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surprised you find the flow on a 9.5 poor. Sure you are using top heat setting?

Max shower size available is 12kW. Your 10mm2 would be sufficient unless the circuit is in excess of 43m. Highly unlikely!!! But this does not include any correction factors for ambient temp or cable running through insulation etcetera....

Would also look at asking EB to check main fuse and meter to see that they are rated at 100A.
 
I always use the top heat setting; at this time of year I usually set the dial to 6 (max 10), and flow reduces noticeably in comparison to the 4 setting on the dial that I normally use in the summer.

Incoming fuse is 60 amp, which is not ideal. However, my small 2-bed bungalow doesn't place huge demands (apart from the shower of course), as I don't have an electric cooker or immersion heater, and I never use the washing machine or any other high wattage appliance when the shower is in use. I know I should uprate the main fuse anyway, definitely will do so if I get a 12kW. Cable run is only about 7 metres, I clipped the cable to joists, above the loft insulation.

I imagine 12kW would give a very decent flow at all times of year, regardless of incoming water temp. Cheers for enlightening me as to what is now available
 
If you use the top heat setting its going to be slower......but 9.5kW should be more than adequate....are sure it not plumbing / water pressure.....
 
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Still struggling with a Sixty Amp Main Fuse?

Surely the electricity board will be able to upgrade it for you for a reasonable cost - why not ask them? :) :) :) :)
 
Juno 60 said:
I always use the top heat setting; at this time of year I usually set the dial to 6 (max 10), and flow reduces noticeably in comparison to the 4 setting on the dial that I normally use in the summer.

Incoming fuse is 60 amp, which is not ideal. However, my small 2-bed bungalow doesn't place huge demands (apart from the shower of course), as I don't have an electric cooker or immersion heater, and I never use the washing machine or any other high wattage appliance when the shower is in use. I know I should uprate the main fuse anyway, definitely will do so if I get a 12kW. Cable run is only about 7 metres, I clipped the cable to joists, above the loft insulation.

I imagine 12kW would give a very decent flow at all times of year, regardless of incoming water temp. Cheers for enlightening me as to what is now available

I the summer, my 9.5kw is almost too hot on 1. But by winter, it's donw to number 6 or 7. There is a reduction in flow, but it is still quite good flow.
 
I only installled the shower last February, so limescale accumulation shouldn't be a major factor at this stage, though I do live in a hard water area. My practice is to flush through with cold water after each shower.

I think it's performing as a 9.5 kW should, mains pressure seems good on the basis of the forceful gush of water I get when I fully open my cold taps. As I said the flow from the Triton is pretty good at lower heat settings (I also remember going down to 1 or 2 on the really hot days last year) - I guess I was just expecting a sensational improvement in flow over the 7.5 kW I previously used - there's no doubt it's better, but not as good as I had hoped for. I reckon I'll stick with it until next year, then install a 12kW.
 
Regarding upgrading your 60A main fuse, East Midlands Electricity (for example) will upgrade the fuse, install a DP isolator and upgrade tails for free. Normal lead time at the moment is a couple of weeks.

They even have a freephone number!

Give your local electricity board a try.
 
Ditto Norweb (TXU Energi/Powergen/whatevertheythinkofnext) will also upgrade meters main fuses etc if they are below par, but they have not reached my house yet. Hmmm, feel a phonecall coming on.....
 
Yes, I think I should get the upgrade done.

I reckon the EB chap might frown at my DIY work when he comes to upgrade my supply! I used a Henley block to split the main CU (old Wylex job with fuse wire cartridges - need to upgrade) and the new dedicated shower CU (nice modern unit with 50 amp MCB and RCD that I got from Screwfix). I used 16 mm tails from the block to each CU, assume is OK.

Although installing the shower was the first major electrical job I've taken on, I'm satisfied that the installation is safe - the whole lot was checked out by my knowledgeable mate (a facilities manager with electrical qualifications) before I commissioned the shower.
 
Chances are he won't notice a thing! Whoever does your upgrade is more likely to be a cable jointer than an electrician and it's unlikely he'll be interested as everything after the isolator is up to you these days, good or bad.

The fellas who recently did mine happily confessed to not knowing a split load CU from aWylex fusebox!
 
The temp of the water depends coming out on the temp of the water coming in.

It's practically freezing at the moment, and my 9.5kw is at 7. Not the best flow, but enough.
 
dingbat said:
Chances are he won't notice a thing! Whoever does your upgrade is more likely to be a cable jointer than an electrician and it's unlikely he'll be interested as everything after the isolator is up to you these days, good or bad.

The fellas who recently did mine happily confessed to not knowing a split load CU from aWylex fusebox!

Interesting to know that the upgrader will probably lack in-depth knowledge of electrics!

It could be argued that my CU set-up is a bit of a bodge job, and mixes the old with the new in an unsatisfactory manner; however, I don't see any significant safety concerns with splitting the CUs using the phase block. The shower circuit meets all the regs, and I made sure all my meter tail connections were correct and very secure.[/i]
 
Not much they could say any-hoos.....Wylex (3036) boards are still acceptable, split the tails as any-one would of done......no worries...
 

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