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Electric shower running too hot - temperature dial issue?

Joined
7 Apr 2025
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United Kingdom
Shower Model: Triton Aspirante (White)

Moved into our new house and our electric shower has started leaking shortly after.

We've got a good idea as to why it's leaking (manual says to use compression fitting to install to water supply, ours definitely doesn't look like one so likely a butchered installation).

What we'd like to know now is whether that is the reason the shower is consistently running hot with little temperature change when using the controls. The shower manual does say that issues with water supply can make the shower run hotter than intended. But we've also noticed that when taking off the shower cover, the dial that controls the temperature doesn't move at all (marked in attached image). Which leads us to believe that it might be broken too. Unless it's not meant to move without electricity.

Our question to the forum is now: On your working Triton Aspirante, when you remove the shower cover - having turned off the electricity of course - does the temperature dial move at all or is it static?

This will essentially help us understand whether we need to install a completely new unit or just replace the fitting.

Thank you so much!

Sincerely,
A new home owner who's never been without a landlord before haha
 

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Yes, you should be able to turn that highlighted flowcontol to give flowrates of ~ 2.5 to 8.5 LPM, the cover (temperature) dial should freely move as well of course.
 
Looks like water has been getting where it shouldn't for a long time, judging by the gunge on the shower base.
Why is that pipe on the right disconnected?
 
Looks like water has been getting where it shouldn't for a long time, judging by the gunge on the shower base.
Why is that pipe on the right disconnected?
That's what I meant by the butchered installation. The installation manual for the shower said to use a compression fitting, the current one looks more like a push-fit. The fitting likely failed because of that. We've just moved into the property so this was done under previous owners.
 
That's what I meant by the butchered installation. The installation manual for the shower said to use a compression fitting, the current one looks more like a push-fit.
Yep, looks like push fit. It could also be plumbed into the hot supply. The thermal cut-out should operate at a certain temperature.
 

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When you look at the back side of the fascia knob that turns the splined stud, are the mating splines on the knob rounded off? Is the knob cracked anywhere such that it will fail to grip the internal tap splines? If you measure up, does the knob fall short of engaging the tap?
 

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