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Electric shower wiring, does this look ok?

Further to this - do you think due to an electrician who is going to be fitting in their words "A New fuse box with RCBO & Electrical certificate" I should get an 8.5kw version instead of 7.5kw given it will be a nice new fusebox setup etc - would the existing cable be ok for 8.5kw?
 
What's the heat and flow going to be like on that

It's only 6.9 kw at 230v
The 8.5kw has this spec

Green star Claim
This shower is regulated to have a maximum flow rate of 8 litres per minute at 3 bar pressure or less. Using an efficient shower head can help manage water use.​
Manufacturer Guarantee
2 Year Manufacturer's Guarantee (T&Cs Apply)​
Max Water Temperature
55 °C​
Max. Shower Flow Rate
3.5 Ltr/min​
Maximum Bar Pressure
10 bar​
Min. Shower Flow Rate
3.5 Ltr/min​
Minimum Bar Pressure
1 bar​





The 7.5kw has this spec;

Green star Claim
This shower is regulated to have a maximum flow rate of 8 litres per minute at 3 bar pressure or less. Using an efficient shower head can help manage water use.​
Manufacturer Guarantee
2 Year Manufacturer's Guarantee (T&Cs Apply)​
Max Water Temperature
55 °C​
Max. Shower Flow Rate
3 Ltr/min​
Maximum Bar Pressure
10 bar​
Min. Shower Flow Rate
3 Ltr/min​
Minimum Bar Pressure
1 bar​
 
would the existing cable be ok for 8.5kw?
Assuming the existing set up is satisfactory, there is no difference between 7.5kW and 8.5kW showers which would demand a different cable size.



Does anyone else agree that the supply conductors look smaller than the shower internal wiring?
 
Does anyone else agree that the supply conductors look smaller than the shower internal wiring?
Yes but they are shorter I suppose :unsure:

Edit....Oh yeah I get you now :D

They probably use the same size wires for any kW shower....maybe.
 
Last edited:
Does the 10KW have three elements whereas the 7KW has two elements though?, I know that some used that little trick.
Yes that's pretty much it, IME usually 3 fairly similar elements of which 2 are strapped (copper straps welding the element ends together) for low power.
 
Yes that's pretty much it, IME usually 3 fairly similar elements of which 2 are strapped (copper straps welding the element ends together) for low power.
Yes good point, but I tink that sometimes they are not equal, perhaps intentionally and probably not always. Obviously we can only measure then cold and once warmed up that will vary but it gives us an initial rough idea.
Perhaps they are designed to be based on a logarithmic sort of difference rather than linear but then at least two of them equal to make production runs more economical.
One manufacturer might bias them logarithmic or geometric and another identical , with either 2 or 3 elements, and which one will be more successful?
Difficult to answer, even for them, there are other factors involved with their decision for greater success or less success.
Only hindsight can confirm their decision success/failure/50 shades of grey.
All we can do is make an approx linear guess then see if it appears to be somewhere near considering hot/cool and manufacturing tolerances and see if it tallies .

One reason I noticed these things is to make a water warmer for a handwash in my shed, I had a few different shower units for spare or repair and decided to measure element resistance so I did a quick calc for each different rating then observed measurements.
My intention was to consider altering connections so the elements could run in series rather than in parallel and calculate the expected temperature rise that might be achieved.

Some of you might have insider information that proves me right or proves me wrong!
 

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