Electrical wiring in metal shed - fixing light switch and socket

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I have a metal shed (single skin) so there's not enough 'meat' to screw anything in to it like a light switch or socket. Also to route the wiring through the shed, will I need conduit if I'm using armoured cable?

What would be best to keep the wiring in place are there any adhesive clips or similar that would do this, as again can't screw or nail things through the shed?

The plan is to have the armoured cable go in via a hole, with a grommet fitted to seal it, up and over the roof of the shed for the lighting, then down to a light switch near the door, and to the opposite side for a single internal, and a single external socket (on either sides of the wall).
 
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Are there any 'uprights' or 'supports' than you can fix to?

Or fix wooden battens to the uprights, supports, framework, whatever you may have - and fix the accessories and cables to that?

You shouldn't need conduit with SWA - unless you think it's highly likely to get damaged.
 
There is a frame along the top of the walls and across the roof. Fix with what - adhesive, then screw in to the battens?
 
Can you drill the framework, and screw the battens to the framework?

Adhesive is for bodgers.

Is there a framework at the bottom as well? Perhaps you can fit vertical battens as well?
 
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Post some pictures of your shed so that we can see what it looks like.
 
By the way this is notifiable work (before you start, not after the event),
Only if he's creating a new circuit. We don't know if he is, so let's ask:
OP - where/how will the feed to the shed be connected in the house?
 
With a metal shed you need to consider bonding requirements. Ask the experts but at a guess don’t export the house earth and make the shed TT with an earth rod bonded to the shed and socket and light earth terminals.

By the way this is notifiable work (before you start, not after the event),
Also my thoughts, Supply to detached outbuildings and broken PEN are worth a read.

The main problems with TT are:-
1) Where you can put an earth rod.
2) How close are buildings with TN supplies?

You don't want an earth rod to hit any services, or even get near to metal services. As a fault could be transmitted by the services.

And you don't want to be able to touch two different zones, a tin shed is basic same as a caravan. But fire rules with caravans mean I think no closer than 1.7 meters in the main a lot more, but a shed could be next to the house.
 
Here's the shed.

The plan is to have a single overhead led light, a single socket inside, and a single socket outside (as per pictures). We had a full rewire last year and the electricians have given us a 32A Isolator in the fusebox which goes directly to the black box on the outside wall of the house.
 

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Do you remember the boy friend remote, it would say "do it again and do it properly." Not really your fault, basic problem is TN-C-S should have never been allowed, but it has been, so now we have to work with it.

So I suppose down to a risk assessment, I have used class I items in the garden, but most things are class II, but the shed is clearly class I and always powered, or at least earth always connected.

In Algeria I saw loss of PEN a lot early 80's, but in UK only once, but it only takes once to kill you, you don't have so many spare lives like a computer game, but being Frank the risk is low, however it is law that EV charging units auto disconnect the earth if there is a loss of PEN.

Lovely pictures, and I want a shed like that, the old one at bottom of garden has reached end of life, but TT to a shed two car plus lengths away is a little different to so close to house a fat man like me will likely not pass between.

I would delay and see what others say, I have given links to IET documents on it. And I know the electricians fitting my solar panels will not connect up the UPS until an earth rod is fitted, best would have been some copper pipes under the concrete slab, but too late for that now, see what others say.
 

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