EPDM Installation Guide - Prepare Your Roof For Installation

R

RWDave

I have made some guides that id like to share with the DIYers here, as EPDM is becoming more and more popular i thought it might be beneficial for you guys to learn the basics of laying EPDM.

I hope some of you dont feel like im teaching you to suck eggs, this is purely for the less experienced DIYers/Roofers.

I will start with Roof Preperation and see what people think, i have many more guides that i can post if people find it a good read. Future guides have images as they go along.

The products i use are Firestone EPDM products for reference.

I hope this helps.

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Material storage and handling

• It is vital the roofing contractor is aware of correct storage of roofing materials. The following are some storage recommendations for handling these products.
• Read labels on all adhesive, primer and sealant tins.
• Keep all glues, adhesives, sealants and cleaning products away from ignition sources such as torches, naked flames, fire, sparks, etc and DO NOT SMOKE in the vicinity of these products.
• Do not breathe vapours and maintain proper ventilation in storage areas.
• Post “No Smoking” signs close to areas where these materials are stored.
• Keep the products in a cool and dry place, and out of direct sunlight.
• Keep container lids closed when not in use, due to loss of solvent through flash-off. Open containers must not be placed near any intake ventilators.
• ALWAYS Stir adhesives and Quickprime plus before and during use. If exposed to temperatures less than 10ºC, restore the Quickprime plus, adhesives and sealants to room temperature prior to use.
• Extreme warm weather can dry out the solvents in adhesives and Quickprime plus quickly. Protect the pails by installing a piece of insulation board under the can on hot summer days and cover cans with a piece of membrane.
• Never use a naked flame to "speed up" the drying process of adhesives or Quickprime plus. Always allow to air dry only. Heat guns may be used to mould Quickseam Formflash. Take care not to over heat.
• Protect all rubber products from discharges such as petroleum products, greases, oils (mineral and vegetable), organic based solvents, animal fats and fresh bitumen (less than 4 weeks old). Do not use materials that have been damaged to the point that they will not perform.
• Protect the EPDM system from direct contact with steam or heat sources when the in-services temperature is in excess of 82ºC.

Tools required

• 2-inch steel or silicon hand roller
• Penny roller
• Stiff broom
• 9-inch paint roller frame & several medium nap, solvent compatible roller covers
• Safety glasses and eye cleaning solution
• Mastic gun
• Crayon
• Screw gun and hammer drill
• Hacksaw and blades
• Solvent resistant rubber gloves
• Stir stick for adhesives
• Tin snips
• Scissors
• Measuring tape
• Hammer
• Duct tape
• Chalk line
• Cotton rags

Product information

EPDM (Ethylene-Propylene-Diene-Terpolymer) was first introduced in 1962 and commercial production began in 1963. The first EPDM roofs were laid in the late sixties. It has a great track record of success in the flat roofing industry, due mainly to its virtually unlimited ozone and weather resistance and low temperature flexibility.
Today, over a billion square metres of EPDM roofing membranes have been installed worldwide from the frozen weather conditions of Alaska to the scorching desert climate of the Middle East. This track record demonstrates this material’s capabilities and its rightful place as a successful solution within the roofing industry.
Rubbercover EPDM is a synthetic rubber roofing membrane used for flat and low-sloped roofs. It is available in a variety of sizes from 3m x 7.62m up to 9.15m x 30m with many size options in between.

Weather conditions

There are a few points to consider in order to achieve a quality installation when weather conditions are inclement.
Care should be taken when using adhesives, sealants or Quickprime plus in cold weather conditions (below 10ºC). It is necessary to store these products at room temperatures prior to use. Do not allow water-based bonding adhesive to freeze.

If temperatures are likely to fall below freezing in the first 48 hours after application, do not use water-based bonding adhesive to adhere the membrane. In this case, solvent-based bonding adhesive should be used instead.

Certain combinations of temperature and humidity may cause condensation to form on the surface of the membrane. If this occurs, stop the operation and wait for better ambient conditions.
The installation and positioning of large EPDM membranes may be difficult in windy conditions. Prevent any wind getting under the sheet during installation. If necessary, use a temporary ballast to keep the membrane in place until it can be fully secured to the substrate.
Substrate considerations

The underlying substrate of the roof should be in good condition, with no rotten timbers. All decayed and wet timbers must be replaced.
Standard 18mm OSB3 or plywood is laid at right angles to joists. A 3mm gap is necessary to allow for expansion and contraction.

Self-drilling countersunk screws shall be used. Under no circumstances should nails or staples be used for fixing of a timber substrate. These fastenings are inclined to work loose and risk damaging the membrane.
The substrate finish should be smooth, and free of sharp edges, wood splinters, etc. All rough surfaces that could damage the membrane should be isolated or removed.

The roof surface must be dry, as moisture will cause poor membrane adhesion and blistering.

All surfaces areas should be swept to remove debris, dust and other loose particles. Once the roof has been prepared properly and has a clean and dry substrate, the EPDM membrane can be laid in-situ ready for attachment.

There should be a minimum finished fall of at least 1:80 to provide positive drainage.

You can find all my guides on PDF Deleted
(I know there are rules on posting links when you're new to the forums, please just inform me if this is not allowed)

I will post the next proccess of EPDM installation next week some time :)

Thank you.
 
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Dave, do you use the Permaroof trims, ie the drip trim that snaps in trapping the rubber.
We do use a different 2 piece trim, But have used the Permaroof trims with no problem, but a few fitters I know wont use them as they say, they cant get on with them.
Also we use Osb 2.4 x 600mm T & G board easier getting on the high roofs and hardly any wastage.
You say only screw the boards down, whats wrong with Paslode ring shank nails.

Last Question, I think I read last week, you have 500 fitters, do you have any in the Cinderford area, ie the Welsh border.
 
Dave, do you use the Permaroof trims, ie the drip trim that snaps in trapping the rubber.
We do use a different 2 piece trim, But have used the Permaroof trims with no problem, but a few fitters I know wont use them as they say, they cant get on with them.
Also we use Osb 2.4 x 600mm T & G board easier getting on the high roofs and hardly any wastage.
You say only screw the boards down, whats wrong with Paslode ring shank nails.

Last Question, I think I read last week, you have 500 fitters, do you have any in the Cinderford area, ie the Welsh border.

Cotswold,

We do use the Permaroof "PermaTrim", its a really simple and eye pleasing trim.

The 2 part gutter section is really easy to install if you have been shown how, one of my guides is how to install this that ill post up at some point.

You can use any decking really, OSB 3 is what I use, but Ply or marine ply (Although expensive) can be used.

I would probably say your better off screwing the decking, just on the off chance that shank nails may come loose.

As for contractors, we have a few in South Wales and some on the boarder, according to our databasee have about 7 or 8 people near Cinderford.
 
Thanks for that, we have used the Permaroof trim with no problems, infact the gutter trims pull the rubber down tighter when you clip the 2nd part in.
The Aviner guys say they cant get on with them, but as said we have had no problems.
We have a Permaroof stockist by me now, via Rinus Roofing Supplies, but they cant match anywhere near Aviners prices, plus the Permaroof water based is different colour to the Firestone adhesive, so a bit wary if its as good, but as said the adhesive is nearly twice the price.
Another draw back Rinus are only stocking 3 common sizes unless I order and pay delivery, where as Aviner stock the large rolls and delivery is only about £15 for complete roof.
 
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I used the permatrim a few years ago and it did not clip properly. It seems that the back section did not like any slight unevenness in the fascia, and the front section was too snug a fit, and so it had a tendency to pop out.

I had to screw it with some epdm washers and mastic

Last year I got some more permatrim and it seems the design had changed slightly and the front section was now not such a snug fit when clipped in - so there was some very slight play to relieve the tension and prevent it trying to spring out

I have noticed a few roofs where plaslode rink-shanked nails had popped slightly and you could see bumps in the rubber.

Also some had gone in too far, especially near to board edges and caused a splintered hole or indent in the board. I wondered if this could lead to the the rubber detaching over time at these points. So I can see the advantage with screws - plus the head is larger
 
Thanks for that, we have used the Permaroof trim with no problems, infact the gutter trims pull the rubber down tighter when you clip the 2nd part in.
The Aviner guys say they cant get on with them, but as said we have had no problems.
We have a Permaroof stockist by me now, via Rinus Roofing Supplies, but they cant match anywhere near Aviners prices, plus the Permaroof water based is different colour to the Firestone adhesive, so a bit wary if its as good, but as said the adhesive is nearly twice the price.
Another draw back Rinus are only stocking 3 common sizes unless I order and pay delivery, where as Aviner stock the large rolls and delivery is only about £15 for complete roof.

The Permaroof trims are really good, you just need to give the gutter drip a gentle tap with a rubber mallet to sandwhich the EPDM in, i'll have to get that guide up for anyone whoe struggles!

Permaroof do a Permaroof Plus Trim also. We stock these also but have yet to try them out properly so i cant really comment on them. They look smart though.

Permaroof Waterbase is good, it was their Bonding/Contact that was more difficult to lay but they have just changed this to a "Premium" contact that is much better.

Avenir are good on price, a lot of their tapes and glues are own branded bearing in mind and i cant say ive used them to know if they are any good.

Not heard of Rinus before, the problem they might have is that a roll of 9 x 30 Firestone EPDM isnt cheap lol! I normally get 5 rolls of 9.1m x 30m and a few 6m x 30m so getting 1 roof in 1 piece isnt normlly a problem.
I dont want to risk getting into prices just in case a mod goes awol lol.

Its good to know people on here are using EPDM though, everyone should!
 
How do you finish epdm at gutter, current have a piece just hanging over the edge into gutter.
 
You have a 2 part gutter trim, the 1st part is fixed to the 50mm x 25mm treated batten, the rubber over laps, then is sandwiched when you clip the front part of trim on.
 
Give me 10 mins and ill get a full guide up on fitting the 2 part gutter trim :)
 

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