equal recirculation between 2 tanks..

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Hi all,

I have a 100 litre loft tank of which is being controlled by SMS messaging (filling, emptying, mixing, various nutrient doses etc) which is for a hydroponics system.

I want to be able to connect this to 2 x secondary tanks of which are 310 litre water butts...see an explanation here as to what I would like to connect to.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5822dpt7FA&feature=player_embedded

It is easy enough to put a float switch in the secondary tanks of which will be active at certain times of the day (when its not emptying or filling so its a true level reading) of which will engage a pump in the main control tank and top them up.

The problem I have is the main tank has conductivity and PH probes in it and the PH auto adjusts once it hits 5.9, pushes in PH down, mixes at the same time then turns off when it hits 5.7. I need the mix in the main tank and the 2 x secondary tanks to recirculate so the readings the probes are detecting are the same. I am not sure how I can get the balance right so that the tanks all pull and push the same amount of water from each other at the same time so it circulates properly i.e if one of the secondary tanks pushes harder the main tank will overflow (I could use a ball valve of course) but this will stop it from circulating properly
 
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Anyone any ideas on this?

Sorry if I havent explained it to well....in summary I am trying to get the contents of one container to equaly flow between the other container

Thanks
 
Are all 3 tanks on the same level?

If so, a flow connection at high level to each of the secondary tanks and a low-level return connection. The pumped connection could be in series or in parallel to the secondary tanks; if parallel, you'll get equal flow if the pipe lengths are the same and the same fittings are used. Look up reverse return connections. If that is impractical, you could use regulating valves to adjsut the flow rates. Unless the pump is huge, there shouldn't be any danger of the tanks overflowing whilst the low-level connections are open.
 
Are all 3 tanks on the same level?

If so, a flow connection at high level to each of the secondary tanks and a low-level return connection. The pumped connection could be in series or in parallel to the secondary tanks; if parallel, you'll get equal flow if the pipe lengths are the same and the same fittings are used. Look up reverse return connections. If that is impractical, you could use regulating valves to adjsut the flow rates. Unless the pump is huge, there shouldn't be any danger of the tanks overflowing whilst the low-level connections are open.

The main 100L reservoir (25 gallon water tank) is considerably lower than the 2 x water butts of which are 330L...still having problems picturing this...can I be cheeky and ask someone do me a rough sketch please
 
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The main 100L reservoir (25 gallon water tank) is considerably lower than the 2 x water butts of which are 330L..

Pump from the tank, through a non-return valve and a regulating valve, into one water butt at a high level connection, a low level connection from that butt to high level in the next, a low level connection from that to return to the lower tank via a solenoid valve. You'd need high and low level float switches to start & stop the pump and open & shut the valve. The solenoid valve will only be reliable if there are no solids in suspension. You could work out the flow rate generated by the pump and the gravity return pipe work if you know the sizes of the pipes, the resistance of all the fittings, the pump head/flow curve and the head between the tanks (which will be variable).

Add overflow pipes if it's liable to cause a mess on going wrong.


still having problems picturing this...can I be cheeky and ask someone do me a rough sketch please

You can ask.

Is that your video? Is Mr. Plod likely to make uninvited visits to examine your hydroponic system? Where do you buy the nutrient solutions from?
 
The main 100L reservoir (25 gallon water tank) is considerably lower than the 2 x water butts of which are 330L..

Pump from the tank, through a non-return valve and a regulating valve, into one water butt at a high level connection, a low level connection from that butt to high level in the next, a low level connection from that to return to the lower tank via a solenoid valve. You'd need high and low level float switches to start & stop the pump and open & shut the valve. The solenoid valve will only be reliable if there are no solids in suspension. You could work out the flow rate generated by the pump and the gravity return pipe work if you know the sizes of the pipes, the resistance of all the fittings, the pump head/flow curve and the head between the tanks (which will be variable).

Add overflow pipes if it's liable to cause a mess on going wrong.


still having problems picturing this...can I be cheeky and ask someone do me a rough sketch please

You can ask.

Is that your video? Is Mr. Plod likely to make uninvited visits to examine your hydroponic system? Where do you buy the nutrient solutions from?

thanks for the reply onetap..im going to do some experiments...

A friend of mine since school has owned a local hydroponics shop for many years. Knowing I dabble in electronics and am an electrician by trade who plays with sms controlled alarm systems etc he asked me to design and build a complete system controlled by mobile phone of which is pretty much complete (I find plumbing a nightmare) and the prototype is being demoed in early November of which is going to be videoed etc

Nutrients can be bought from any of the 650 or so hydroponics shops in the UK (Birmingham has 40+ aparently) Also Ebay is full of hydroponics kit, nutrients etc.
 
PS The piping could be much simplified if the lowest tank were a pressure vessel, capable of taking the pressure exerted by the higher tanks. The pipe fittings would be limited to a fill-valve, pump and whatever valves were needed to control circulation when it wasn't wanted. The only plastic pressure vessels I know of are wrapped GRP, made for water softeners. Plastic chemical drums aren't pressure vessels.

This system would also contain stagnant water and nutrients and is certain to grow legionella and other bugs if the water gets warm in summer. An uninsulated water storage tank standing in sunlight can easily get up to blood heat, 37 degC, which is bug paradise. You should be very wary if the water is sprayed or otherwise atomized.
 

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