EV Chargepoint/Supply Requirements/Smart Meter Fitment?

[Aragorn84]

Is that true (for the 'meter fitter' and the DNO)? I've yet to see a 'meter fitter' who did not pull the DNO fuse him/herself - I would think that DNOs would go crazy if they had to attend (once or twice) every meter replacement

yeah i meant simply that the service head bit needs done by the DNO, and the meter bit needs done by the supplier. The isolator is in effect customer responsibility, but often the meter guys will do it.

Theres some crossover though. I had a new supply run in from the street and asked the DNO to fit my isolator when they had it all in bits. He said sure, infact keep your one and i'll fit one from the van... He also replaced all the meter tails with new 25mm ones while he was there.

 

[JohnW2]

yeah i meant simply that the service head bit needs done by the DNO, and the meter bit needs done by the supplier. The isolator is in effect customer responsibility, but often the meter guys will do it.

Indeed.

Theres some crossover though. I had a new supply run in from the street and asked the DNO to fit my isolator when they had it all in bits. He said sure, infact keep your one and i'll fit one from the van... He also replaced all the meter tails with new 25mm ones while he was there.

Partially similar here. When I had my most recent (non-smart') 'routine meter change', I asked the guy if he could fit an isolator whilst the fuse was out, and he said exactly the same - he declined my offer of a ('new and boxed') one I had on my shelf and, instead, provided one free-of-charge from his van. He therefore earned his tea and biccies!

Kind Regards, John

 

[Old Salt]

They will use their own isolator so they know it is capable of handling the load and most of the DNO’s will have authorised the companies training/supplying the meter fitters to remove the “company fuse”.

 

[JohnW2]

They will use their own isolator so they know it is capable of handling the load ...

Indeed, but, at least in my case, the ('band new and boxed') one of mine which was declined was identical to the FOC one that the guy supplied, so I doubt that 'mine' would have been any less capable of "handling the load"

Kind Regards, \john

 

[Old Salt]

Indeed, but, at least in my case, the ('band new and boxed') one of mine which was declined was identical to the FOC one that the guy supplied, so I doubt that 'mine' would have been any less capable of "handling the load"

Kind Regards, \john

Yes but the fitter doesn't know that and his method statement will tell him to use the one on his van not yours.

 

[JohnW2]

Yes but the fitter doesn't know that and his method statement will tell him to use the one on his van not yours.

I don't doubt that

Mind you, given that it was being installed on my side of the meter (and hence not the responsibility of the supplier once installed), I'm not quite sure that it really makes much difference.

Kind Regards, John

 

[davelx]

Some years ago when I had my charge point installed (FOC at the time), the fitter was quite happy to use the circuit that I had installed up to the rotary isolator myself. I gave him my test results, which he verified himself after installing, and he then provided me with an EIC for the whole circuit on NICEIC forms and notified it through them.

 

[StephenStephen]

I would agree that it's a good idea to get a smartmeter installed at this point - time of use tarrifs like Octopus Go can make a big difference to what you pay, and there's been a backlog on installing, so the sooner you ask for one the better.

 

[davelx]

I would agree that it's a good idea to get a smartmeter installed at this point - time of use tariffs like Octopus Go can make a big difference to what you pay, and there's been a backlog on installing, so the sooner you ask for one the better.

I looked into Octopus Go and for me, doing regularly only about 50 miles per week, the higher standing charge more than wiped out the gain from the lower unit price. So you need to do your sums before opting for one of those EV tariffs.

 

[AndyPRK]

A zappi charger can monitor what the house is using, and reduce the charge as required to ensure the main fuse isn’t overloaded.

https://myenergi.com/zappi-2-grid-limit-function/


There are other benefits too, like no additional PEN detectors or RCDs required

 

[BS3036]

A zappi charger can monitor what the house is using, and reduce the charge as required to ensure the main fuse isn’t overloaded.

But only if you tell it what the main fuse rating is.

 

[plugwash]

You could always be conservative and set the limit to 60A. Afaict most mains fuses are at least 60A and few houses draw more than 30A for long enough to noticeably effect EV charging times.

 

[AndyPRK]

The chargers only use 31A, so there isn't really a need for a 100A fuse anyway

 

[flameport]

The chargers only use 31A, so there isn't really a need for a 100A fuse anyway

Depends on what else is already in use.
The key difference with an EV charger is that is can be switched on at full load for hours.

 

[AndyPRK]

You could always be conservative and set the limit to 60A. Afaict most mains fuses are at least 60A and few houses draw more than 30A for long enough to noticeably effect EV charging times.

I think the maximum setting is 60A anyway!