Evohome installation help

[picasso]

You need to use the hot water bdr wired into the junction box to control the cylinder zone valve and the other two bdrs connected directly to the boiler 240rt connection, remove the 24v link, so you will end up with three wires in the rt , two from the bdr "b" connections and one from the orange from the zone valve.

 

[DP]

Bit of a bell end aint you, lets have it.


The point of me being a spark is to avoid comments of i need a qualified person to wire it up and like wise the point of my brother being gas safe is to avoid comments such like ill need to get my boiler checked once the cover has been lifted.

neither of these professions help someone that has never installed the product.

I have been told conflicting information from Honeywell Technical, one said i can use eBus one said i cant.

Where i am now is this...

BDR91 at boiler, L&N in, L bridge to A, B to RT230, i threw the towl in for the day and got on the beers

Bell end? more the truth that you are a big girls blouse you diddy.
Post was a straight no cheek comment
The supplier depending on where you get the Evohome, will prepare the components to be hooked on to your system. Any would be spark with a gas safe person looking over his shoulders would be able to hook up the Evohome. IN FACT one does not even need to go near the boiler as all the modification is carried out in the wiring center.

If you have not picked up vital nuggets of information that BDR signal needs direct ‘flight’ to the controller with no metallic objects to soak up that signal, you perhaps need to burn some midnight oil

Advise I would give you is get the Evohome, start fitting it and then seek help if you have an issue. If you do not have the bottle to do it then throw the towel in.

 

[sh4d0w]

Bell end? more the truth that you are a big girls blouse you diddy.
Post was a straight no cheek comment
The supplier depending on where you get the Evohome, will prepare the components to be hooked on to your system. Any would be spark with a gas safe person looking over his shoulders would be able to hook up the Evohome. IN FACT one does not even need to go near the boiler as all the modification is carried out in the wiring center.

If you have not picked up vital nuggets of information that BDR signal needs direct ‘flight’ to the controller with no metallic objects to soak up that signal, you perhaps need to burn some midnight oil

Advise I would give you is get the Evohome, start fitting it and then seek help if you have an issue. If you do not have the bottle to do it then throw the towel in.

I have the evo home, all bought and on my dining table, bought from EvoHomeShop, they will not pre-configure anything and also wont offer any support for the wiring upto the boiler.

 

[sh4d0w]

You need to use the hot water bdr wired into the junction box to control the cylinder zone valve and the other two bdrs connected directly to the boiler 240rt connection, remove the 24v link, so you will end up with three wires in the rt , two from the bdr "b" connections and one from the orange from the zone valve.

Ahh, so the hotwater BDR also has to go back to the boiler? it was suggested that it did not and would work wirelessly to the BDR that IS connected to my boiler.

 

[DP]

I have the evo home, all bought and on my dining table, bought from EvoHomeShop, they will not pre-configure anything and also wont offer any support for the wiring upto the boiler.

Fit the BDRs as suggested
Label one as unvented, other as CH

Both BDR L&N power up from supply at wiring centre
CH BDR switching contact must not have any power connected to then ie be voltage free, to link out the demand terminations on the boiler

If the hot water MV runs the boiler when valve calls for heat, I would utilise the orange wires of that valve as the demand pair to run the boiler for heating as well as hot water

The HW thermostat will need to be bound to the evohome (wireless) and HW BDR (which will have been harried to the wiring centre) assigned then CH BDR assigned else it will get screwed up. Follow the manual word for word.

 

[picasso]

The bdrs are just switches between the evohome controller and the boiler, one bdr controls the zone valve for hot water which turns boiler on through the end switches in the zone valve, the other bdr controls the heating by simply switching the boiler on when a trv calls for heat, as said you can do the wiring from the junction box.

 

[DP]

It always amazes me when people try to complicate something that is inherently simple and there is nothing more simple than a heating system. It's either ON or OFF...that's it... hot water is going to (insert name of hot water exchange) or it's not. I want to use eBus..why, what's in a protocol? Why do you need a "protocol" when what you want to do is "open" or "close" a valve which in turn is operated by power so it is powered or it's not

My system uses the raspberry pi zero and multiple temperature sensors and multiple 2 port values. I collect data that I can use of a kind of AI so the system "learns" as they say.
My 300l tank had a single thermostat right at the bottom where the cold water comes in. So when roughly 100l of water had been used, the boiler kicked in and heated the 100l. The fact that I still had 200l to go was just wasted effort. Now it heats water based on usage and "expectation" of usage. Really clever, energy saving, but so so simple and inexpensive. A pi zero costs £11 , temperature probes cost £1.50 each and relays cost £6 for 4..I can access over my local network unlike the hive I have (on another system) that requires me to go to a server in the USA to switch on a boiler...crazy...
The Romans invented central heating...keep that in mind

At what temperature is your hot water control ‘satisfied, and switches the MV off?

 

[sh4d0w]

Thank you once again.
not had a pop at it today, been in a foul mood (self inflicted... i was all set to buy a new fishtank this morning then i bottled it and ever since been in a mood, oops), fishing tomorrow so i will have a bash tomorrow night.

Can i just confirm then, please...

This is my layout, every rad in the house bar two Towel rads will have HR91/2's,


So here i am removing the 470F wireless controller receiver from the front of my boiler, removing both 24V RT and BUS. I am taking 230V RT to BOILER BDR91 B and two cables FROM B to brown on UP and DOWN 2 Port Valves.


Here i am going to remove the VR61 by taking the L/N/E from the fused spur to disable power to the VR61, remove all valve cables from LP/ZP, HK1 & HK2 - VR61 is deadddddeed now. Brown Wires from CH Valves to Boiler B, i guess N & E can be joined to mains from spur?

If i am not mistaken this has taken care of CH and DHW remains. ?


So the DHW:
HW - You need to use the probe in the cylinder stat pocket - the current stat on my tank needs to be removed and the new EvoHome stat goes into the pocket?
However it is essential you wire the High Limit stat in - What is this? forgive me, it might be simple as looking, the kit is in the garage and i have not yet opened the DHW Kit to look over it.
on the cylinder in series with the HW BDR91. So L & N to HW BDR91. - this can be taken from my mains fused spur?
L to A - same as Boiler BDR, just a bridge?
B to high limit stat com, - B OUT of BDR to the Wireless box High Limit Common?
High Limit stat NC to Brown MV wire. - Please can you clear this up for me buddy?

and if i have got anytihng else a miss.

Many thanks

Martin

 

[muggles]

Your photos don't seem to have posted

 

[sh4d0w]

Here we go, take two AND an addon.

Up until this evening i didnt really know much about the engineering and control of the cylinders, still dont really.

I have A Kingspan Albion UltraSteel 210Ltr Unvented Indirect cylinder:
https://www.fueltankshop.co.uk/kings...cylinder/p5431

It has a Codice – Dual Combined High Limit Thermostat & Control
https://www.unventedcomponentseurope...ol-542794.html
Kingspan part number - STATDUALALTP

The cover has never been on this device since it was installed and the immersion has never been wired up either - is this something i need to do / have done? will it help things?


So i suspect i have a copper pocket that my aforementioned stat sits inside i have not traced the white cable coming from the DHW Stat just yet, do i need too? i THINK it goes directly to my Boiler and connects here:

the chocblock

With all this in mind, i am ever so slightly lost now so any help will be received with great appreciation.

 

[muggles]

OK, for starters this wiring centre needs to go. It's part of the old eBUS system and won't work with Evohome. You need a new standard wiring centre.



Your cylinder thermostat looks like it's never been wired in either, which means it's not providing the safety overheat function required by Building Regulations. The wire coming out of it is a temperature sensor which reports cylinder temperature to the boiler. Again, that's part of the old eBUS and needs to be removed. Leave the boiler wires in the choc block, they'll be fine there. You can un-mount the cylinder stat, withdraw the sensor, install the Evohome sensor in its place and reinstall the cylinder stat. You'll need the cover for it though, as when you wire it in there'll be 230v in there. If you don't have the cover, The Evohome Shop's sister company, The Intergas Shop, can sell you a safety cutout stat.

I'm afraid to say you're becoming a perfect demonstration of why professional installation is the preferred option for this. Someone who knows what they are doing would have knocked all of this out in a day, and been able to charge everything to you including the entire Evohome system at 5% VAT, giving you a considerable saving on the cost of materials, which would have gone a good way towards paying for their labour

 

[picasso]

As already said you seem to be struggling with this, here is a wiring diagram to see if that helps if not I suggest you throw the towel in, the central heating zone valves can just be hooked open permanently and you need to remove the 24v link on the pcb.

the two red dots on the diagram show where you have to run a wire through the unvented stat (to comply with g3 regs) and a disclaimer the diagram is the way I would wire it up but I am not working on your heating system so it may not suit, the responability is yours.

 

[DP]

As said, simple enough task. Am little astonished heating engineer on site is missing elementary stuff like S plan wiring. While Evohome installation may not be straightforward, zone wiring should not be rocket science to a spark or a heating engineer.

At the end of the day what is a zone valve or a BDR- a glorified relay that a spark should not have any trouble using, be it with a little prodding that has already been carried out above. Call me a dickhead or what you will OP, clearly as a spark you are letting your side down. No humbleness either or grace to thank those that are helping you

 

[sh4d0w]

As said, simple enough task. Am little astonished heating engineer on site is missing elementary stuff like S plan wiring. While Evohome installation may not be straightforward, zone wiring should not be rocket science to a spark or a heating engineer.

At the end of the day what is a zone valve or a BDR- a glorified relay that a spark should not have any trouble using, be it with a little prodding that has already been carried out above. Call me a dickhead or what you will OP, clearly as a spark you are letting your side down. No humbleness either or grace to thank those that are helping you

This is my own home, not on site. Said heating engineer has not been consulted as i would like to complete this myself with the help of you lovely people, the only thing i want his input on is checking once it is all done as per regs.

 

[sh4d0w]

OK, for starters this wiring centre needs to go. It's part of the old eBUS system and won't work with Evohome. You need a new standard wiring centre.

View attachment 196032

Your cylinder thermostat looks like it's never been wired in either, which means it's not providing the safety overheat function required by Building Regulations. The wire coming out of it is a temperature sensor which reports cylinder temperature to the boiler. Again, that's part of the old eBUS and needs to be removed. Leave the boiler wires in the choc block, they'll be fine there. You can un-mount the cylinder stat, withdraw the sensor, install the Evohome sensor in its place and reinstall the cylinder stat. You'll need the cover for it though, as when you wire it in there'll be 230v in there. If you don't have the cover, The Evohome Shop's sister company, The Intergas Shop, can sell you a safety cutout stat.

I'm afraid to say you're becoming a perfect demonstration of why professional installation is the preferred option for this. Someone who knows what they are doing would have knocked all of this out in a day, and been able to charge everything to you including the entire Evohome system at 5% VAT, giving you a considerable saving on the cost of materials, which would have gone a good way towards paying for their labour

Hi mate,

i am aware the VR61 has to go and also all the other Vailiant controls too. When i was taking these pics i also thought the same but to be totally honest, i didnt have much understanding of the Cylinder stat - will get the manual and wire up accordingly.

I have the cover for it, that was just sat on the floor , i guess the installer (my brother as it happens) could not be arsed to feed the cable through the grommet so left it off. Hummmmm.

I fully appreciate what you are saying about getting someone in to complete the works, i did look initially but nobody knew about the Evo Home that i contacted. Plus, i am a hands on chappy that gets excited about learning new skills and products, especially those that i am using in my home. So, i would like to do everything i can to get this working on my own with the help of the internet - after all, that is what these forums are for.