EXPERIENCED Plumber Question

Another thing I don't understand is what temp you set the BOILER radiator temp dial to - maximum 75 degrees?
 
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Any other gas appliances on the same supply?

As for re-pipe. The main run's should be in 22mm, 15mm can come off this to feed 2 or 3 radiators, depending on size and distance. Depending on the pipework there at the moment, it may only require a couple of lengths of 22mm installed to make a massive differance.

How long ago was it installed?
 
The original system was installed God knows when. I noticed on the old system that this big frontroom rad was where all the sludge collected, was always the last to warm up which suggests' it't position is as much the problem
Only a kitchen hob on the gas but problems not related to that. Incidentally, I have just been to check and it seems pretty hot now, but I don't want to be in a situation where it's only hot when 2 or 3 other rads are off. Besides it's taken it about 4-5 hours to really heat up.
 
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Sounds more like yet another Vaillant install where the installer hasn't bothered to range rate the boiler :rolleyes:
 
Sounds more like yet another Vaillant install where the installer hasn't bothered to range rate the boiler :rolleyes:

Which to a layman, means what?

I do recall the plumber moaning because he had original 18mm pipe to join to about 2 metres away from the boiler. But every time I lifted the floor to fit new rads upstairs I just saw 15mm
 
My house has 4 seperate ( 2 pipe ) drop-downs from upstairs.

One to my conservatory - always hot. One to my kitchen always hot - one new one to my middle room - always hot and one to my hall and frontroom ( back to back). These 2 are the slowest. The frontroom 700x2000 single is the one I want to take priority.
 
I was in the middle of explaining a short term workaround to your problem but i don't think i will now after your last outburst to me on your other thread :(
 
You misunderstood me entirely. I was quoting my thoughts to my wife after she moans about being cold. Please excuse me if I accidentally offended in any way. It was in no way aimed at you and I am mortified that I foolishly risked you thinking so.
 
In the short term, close the trv's to the rads that get hot, if the problem rad gets hot enough then the rads that get hot quickest, close down the lockshield valve (not trv) on these rads. It can be a ballache balancing exactly (sometimes impossible) but it might improve until you get pipework altered.
 
You misunderstood me entirely.

I did but sometimes hard to pick things up in type. :oops:

In the meantime if you have the boiler installation manual go to section 8.1.2
If you feel confident to follow the instructions do the following
Follow instructions to get to 2nd level diagnostics

Change parameter d19 to 3 (default is 2)
This will keep the pump at high setting.

Change parameter d71 to 85 (default 75)
This will alter the maximum boiler temp to 85 deg instead of 75 deg.

Don't alter any other settings.

This should get you a bit more heat through in the meantime until you get the pipes altered. Remember to change them back when you have it fixed.

Also as gigs said check back the rads that are heating best. Start by fully closing the lockshield then opening 1/4 turn. Let it run for a wee while and check temp. Open up 1/4 turn at a time until satisfactory.
 
Properly balancing should ensure all thew rads heat up at about the same rate.

Simple, start by opening all TRVs to max. Close lockshields and open just 3/4 turns. . Let it stabilise and adjust just 1/4 turn to close hot ones and open cooler ones.

Tony
 
[quote
I do recall the plumber moaning because he had original 18mm pipe to join to about 2 metres away from the boiler. But every time I lifted the floor to fit new rads upstairs I just saw 15mm
That was probably 3/4 imperial pipe ...which dates your pipework to early/mid 70`s @ the latest- cuz that`s when it changed to metric ;)
 

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