Extending Garage Wiring

I suppose one other solution whether regulation legal or not is to fit the additional socket(s) and then use plug in RCD's.
 
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I suppose one other solution whether regulation legal or not is to fit the additional socket(s) and then use plug in RCD's.
That obviously would not be compliant (as far as new socket(s) were concerned) and, if compliance were all one was concerned about, "why bother to use RCDs at all?" (the OP presumably doesn't currently do so with his one socket).

Kind Regards, John
 
You could theoretically do as BAS has just suggested and just add a socket as you have proposed, but use an RCD socket for the new one - the regulations do not require 'existing' sockets to be RCD protected.

However, unless 16A is enough for your requirements (and I don't think we've established that it necessarily is), you're going to have to get that B16 changed to a B20 - would you feel confident/competent enough to do that without an electrician?

Kind Regards, John

Ok if i can switch the main switch off and change to a B20 i don't have problem even if it means i have to undo wires and put in new thing

If using an RCD socket works thats fine to be honest the original socket is not even going to be used.

Interesting as the house the CU in the box was fitted in 2010 the earliest i think any of the houses built on the estate was 2008 and as i'm at the end but only bought last year Most things fitted in 2010 but the garage could be there from 2008 / 2009

When working out eh 16 / 20 A thing is that based on power required i.e fuse in each piece of equipment ??
 
That obviously would not be compliant (as far as new socket(s) were concerned) and, if compliance were all one was concerned about, "why bother to use RCDs at all?" (the OP presumably doesn't currently do so with his one socket).
Why then just not fit two or three double rcd sockets in a radial format?
 
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Why then just not fit two or three double rcd sockets in a radial format?
I already more-or-less addressed that in my responseto BAS - if one used two, and definitely if one used more than two, RCD sockets, it would be cheaper to just have a single RCD of some sort protecting all the sockets.

Howver, my point in response to your previous suggestion was that, if one does not care about the fixed wiring being compliant with regs (i.e. by adding a socket which is not RCD protected), and if one hasn't been using plug-in RCDs for the first socket, why would one bother to use a plug-in RCDs for the new socket?

Kind Regards, John
 
Ok if i can switch the main switch off and change to a B20 i don't have problem even if it means i have to undo wires and put in new thing
It's not necessarily quite as simple or safe as that (apart from anything else, there will still be some live parts within the CU, evcen with its switch off), so I suggest you put that on hold for a while. The B16 may prove to be adequate - and the worst that will happen is that it will trip if you put too much of a load on the circuit.
If using an RCD socket works thats fine to be honest the original socket is not even going to be used.
Fair enough. Some of the more sneeky people might wonder whether simply 'moving' that one socket (i.e. extending its cable) would actually make it a 'new socket' which the regulations required to be RCD protected - but I that would be very debatable, if not 'naughty'!

So, simply get a new RCD socket (per BAS's picture) and wire that to the existing socket with 2.5mm² twin & earth cable.
When working out eh 16 / 20 A thing is that based on power required i.e fuse in each piece of equipment ??
Yes, it's the power required, but that's not necessarily the same as the fuse in their plugs. Both your heater and treadmill may well have 13A fuses, but that doesn't necessarily mean that they would use 26A in total. We're just guessing. As above, 16A may prove to be enough for you. If you find that it trips when you have a 'heavy load' then you would have to consdier moving up to a B20, or even contemplating one of the 'Plan Bs' I previously mentioned. Incidentally, things would be no different if (as you mentioned) you used an extension lead plugged into the existing socket - that B16 would still trip if your loads drew appreciably more than 16A.

Kind Regards, John
 
Thanks Everyone

Especially John. I don't suppose i could ask how much a ball park figure should an electrician be charging to change main switch to RCD and B16 to B20

Might have to just bite the bullet
 
Thanks Everyone Especially John. I don't suppose i could ask how much a ball park figure should an electrician be charging to change main switch to RCD and B16 to B20
You're welcome. That's one of those very difficult ones, since it's such a small job. It probably wouldn't take more than about five minutes, so it's probably down to how little an electrician can charge for any job for it to be 'worth their while to do it'. I think you'd just have to 'phone around' and ask. If there's an electrician based 'just around the corner' from you, you could be lucky and get it done very cheaply!

If you do decide to involve an electrician, you should consider also getting him/her to change the main switch in your CU to an RCD, so that you don't need to use an RCD socket (and can add as many sockets as you wish). Provided they could find a way of switching off the power to the CU (which, as we've discussed, might not be straightforward), that would also be a quick (hence pretty cheap) job.

Kind Regards, John
 
Thanks Everyone

Especially John. I don't suppose i could ask how much a ball park figure should an electrician be charging to change main switch to RCD and B16 to B20

Might have to just bite the bullet
Parts: Wylex 63A RCD (Screwfix) £35.20
Wylex 20A MCB (Screwfix) £4.74
Alternatively 20A RCBO (Screwfix) £38.15 - if it fits that CU.

Time around 30minutes including testing.
£50/60.
 
Parts: Wylex 63A RCD (Screwfix) £35.20
Wylex 20A MCB (Screwfix) £4.74
Alternatively 20A RCBO (Screwfix) £38.15 - if it fits that CU.
In fact, if the OP wants to include 'RCD' protection in the CU, the RCBO option might well be the most sensible way to go - and it looks as if one may well fit in his CU. Not only is it fractionally cheaper than RCD+B20 (and, indeed, probably no more expensive than using a B20+RCD socket), but it avoids the need for an electrician having to try to find a way of isolating the supply to the CU.

Kind Regards, John
 

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