Failed Rad removal, now leaking- help!

[adamtw]

I went to remove a radiator prior to decorating, think I understand the concept ok:

1. Shut off valves
2. Loosen nuts either end of rad, allowing water to drain into bowl

However, when I went to loosen the nut on the inner side of the valve, it was SO damned tight the whole valve assembly twisted. As a result, water began to weep from the nut on the feed pipe coming up from the floor.

I had the valve clamped too with another wrench, but it didn't keep it still enough. The seal has obviously been broken now and it needs full disassembling and re-tightening with new PTFE tape.

Is this something I can do myself or should I just get a plumber in? I don't have lots of plumbing supplies and have never removed a rad, drained a rad, refilled a rad.

Think I just answered my own question didn't I?

Any advice gratefully received though.

Thanks.

 

[mickyg]

you may be able to carry out a repair with some PTFE tape. Do you have any? if not get yourself down Screwfix before it shuts and buy a role.
Then.
Get a large piece of bluetac. Use one large lump to plug the hole in the small tank in the loft, and another piece to plug the pipe that goes over the top of it.Make sure it doesn't go down! Then open the rad valve into a bowl, if your bluetac is in securely the flow will shortly stop, you can then loosen the nut, take off the valve, wrap some ptfe around the olive on the pipe, re-assemble, refill, voila.

good luck

 

[dolph]

I am not a plumber but have found myself in this position several times. I hold the body of the valve tight, and just tighten up the nut on the inflow nut to the valve. Usually it moves just slightly but enough to re-crush the olive (technical term ) and the leak ceases.

 

[Soggy_weetabix]

A classic case of why plumbers should be used if you dont have basic plumbing knowledge.

Drain the system, or bung it. Re-make the joint you have caused to leak, refill and vent the system.

Easy as removing the rad.

FAQ will explain more

 

[Whitespirit66]

you may be able to carry out a repair with some PTFE tape. Do you have any? if not get yourself down Screwfix before it shuts and buy a role.
Then.
Get a large piece of bluetac. Use one large lump to plug the hole in the small tank in the loft, and another piece to plug the pipe that goes over the top of it.Make sure it doesn't go down! Then open the rad valve into a bowl, if your bluetac is in securely the flow will shortly stop, you can then loosen the nut, take off the valve, wrap some ptfe around the olive on the pipe, re-assemble, refill, voila.

good luck

Mickyg - Where did it say in the post that he has a vented system - or do you posess a crystal ball?? He may have a combi!

To the OP - First try tightening the compression nut slightly at the bottom of the valve where the pipe enters.
P.S. If you do have a combi, you are unlikely to have a tank in your loft

 

[John506]

And if you do have a combi, the tank in your loft won't be connected to anything.

If there is a tank and you have a conventional boiler, and you want to DIY, I heard a carrot plugging the distro pipe and a potato stuck on the vent pipe works better.hehehe

 

[mickyg]

Mickyg - Where did it say in the post that he has a vented system - or do you posess a crystal ball??

i guessed, actually I guessed wrong. Looking at previous posts, it is a combi, and not a good one at that! Once the system is drained no doubt the LWPS will be blocked and not re-activate. Still he has a place to come for advice when it does

 

[mickyg]

And if you do have a combi, the tank in your loft won't be connected to anything.

If there is a tank and you have a conventional boiler, and you want to DIY, I heard a carrot plugging the distro pipe and a potato stuck on the vent pipe works better.hehehe

blue tac is definately better
I always keep some handy for those damn tank connectors with the teeth in them grr