Fan Isolator - Zone 3 (I think)

[ldoodle]

We're re-doing out bathroom in the next few days

And how much is all of that costing?

FFS stop being a d***head trying to save a few quid by installing a fan which is not what you really want, or d***ing about with multiple switches and stick-on labels!

Either put in a humidistat one, or a regular one triggered by the operation of the shower.

We don't have an electric shower (mixer fed from combi) and I assume their is nothing on the market that can detect when a pipe is open and fire up a fan.

You are right BAS. I normally enjoy a good challenge but i'm not feeling it for this. I don't know why. I am just trying to find excuses to go with the option that has the least amount of work/cost required!

I know it makes sense to do it properly so I will do just that!

As to the whole cost, I am lucky that I have very good friends in the trades so get parts at cost and labour cheaper than most

 

[ldoodle]

Good old TLC http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/XPSL100HT.html

Not a great deal more than the DX100 I was sourcing elsewhere.

With a humidistat one, I guess I would take the L/N/E from the light fixing to the isolator, then on from there to the extractor.

As no other switches/cords are involved is that all that's needed? I would want the fan 'live' at all times unless the isolator is in the off position.

Also, how good are the detectors in these things - as the bath and fan will be at opposite sides of the room, will the fan work 'properly'?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I assume their is nothing on the market that can detect when a pipe is open and fire up a fan.

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=("flow+switch"+OR+flowswitch)

 

[ldoodle]

BAS you really do know your stuff!

I'm not sure what the regs say about flush mounted pull cords, i.e. having a dry lining backbox recessed in to the ceiling so you just have the fixing showing - is this allowed re fire traps etc.

Also, i'm actually struggling to find a pull cord to my liking. I want one that has a white or chrome square fixing and a chrome handle, without a neon!

The usual suspects don't seem able to help!

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Is your bathroom ceiling a fire compartment barrier?

I've got flush switches in mine - one for the shower and one for the light. Actually the latter is a blanking plate with a hole in the centre and the cord running through to a switch above the ceiling, as I can't abide those round jobbies.

Shower switch is in a regular recessed box screwed to a noggin between two joists - I didn't fancy the ability of a dry-lining box to stay in place.

 

[ldoodle]

Is your bathroom ceiling a fire compartment barrier?

Nope, there is nothing up there other than standard insulation role (which I put in) with chipboard flooring on top.

I also hate the round fixings - do either the light one, or fan one (if I ever decided to have a fan pull cord) need to be of the double pole type?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

No.

 

[ldoodle]

Thanks BAS.

One last thing, although a bit off topic... as the loft is insulated and boarded, what are the rules re downlights.

I was thinking of putting in 4 of these http://www.screwfix.com/p/halolite-fixed-round-white-240v-low-energy-downlight/43684

but the recessed part will be surrounded by insulation then boarded over. Also is there a requirement to have so much space between the top of the unit and the boarding, or can they pretty much just kiss each other?

Is it just a case of cutting a 'hole' the insulation?

 

[bernardgreen]

One last thing, although a bit off topic... as the loft is insulated and boarded, what are the rules re downlights.

Bathing by torchlight comes to mind.

Holes in ceilings with hot lamps in them. Seriously check your house insurance, the small print. A policy I saw yesterday has a clause about downlighters having to be disclosed to the insurance company for consideration by the underwriters.


Use a humidistat to switch the fan on and have a short over run ( 5 minutes or so ) as the humidistat will switch off before the humidity has all gone.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

what are the rules re downlights.

Building Reguations Part L: You may not make the insulation worse, so cutting holes isn't on - you have to find a way to re-instate it. But you still have to provide the clearance around the lights that the maker specifies.

Part C: You have to prevent air from the bathroom getting through the lights or the holes into the loft, or you risk condensation and damage.

• http://www.nhbc.co.uk/NHBCPublicati...ical/StandardsExtra/filedownload,16553,en.pdf
  
  
• Pre-formed cap to seal downlights: http://www.aico.co.uk/firecap_loftcap.htm (It's NOT a firehood....)
  
  
• IET article on installing downlighters safely

 

[ldoodle]

Thanks BAS. One to remember for future.

Looks like it's a no-go anyway as the loft joists + boarding don't have enough clearance to accomodate downlights.