Feather edge fence

20 Apr 2008
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United Kingdom
Hi All

I am about to start replacing my very tired fence with feather edge fencing, this is the fist time I have attempted any fencing jobs so I am hoping you can help me with the answers to my questions.

1. The arris rails come in 2.4m lengths I will be fixing these to the posts with brackets but is 2.4m too large a span, if so what length should I cut them back to. Approx length of garden 25m

2. When I put the posts in I intend to use postcrete, is it true that I can put this in the hole around the post dry and add water after, if so how much water for a bag of postcrete, I cannot see an amount on the bag.

3. With a 1.8m fence how many arris rails shoul I use, 3 or 4.

Thanks in Advance
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2.4 is fine. Use the metal arris brackets with screws, not nails. For extra strength. Get round or dome headed screws, not countersunk.

Half bucket of water should do it. Por some into the hole before you start. Chuck some old broken bricks in the mix to bulk it up and ram it all down into the bottom of the hole with bit of 4x2 before watering.

1.8m high? Use 3 arris per section, don't forget gravel boards (these should be dead level, other wise the top of the fence won't be.
Make sure you use 2400 posts so you have a couple of feet of post buried in the concrete.
Hey thanks for that, :D I was thinking of using 2700mm posts with 150mm gravel boards and 1800mm feather edge boards, I know this goes slightly over 6 ft but the fence is against a path not the neighbours garden. I would stick the posts aot 800mm in the ground
Won't be going anywhere if you dig that deep. You'll probably need twice as much postcrete though. Might be cheaper to buy ballast and cement in bags and mix it yourself. Doesn't set in 20 mins but putting the posts in will be a days work in itself, the concrete will be gone off by the next day when it's time to put the featheredge on.
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youll get a stronger fence using ended arris rails and morticed posts.

As deluks says half a bucket is fine. we put the posts up and dry pack the concrete in. At the end of the job we then put the water in (if not using rapid set)

3 arris rails is the norm and 2400 on an 1800 fence is fine for the depth of posts
youll get a stronger fence using ended arris rails and morticed posts.

I beg to differ :LOL:

On old fences the thinner ends of the rails are the first to go, and the mortices fill up with woodlice. Granted, it looks better though. ;)
well differ then! seen plenty of metal brackets that have gone where the screw heads have snapped off in high winds!
Thanks for your help so far :)

I would use morticed posts but can't find any already done, Can you buy them if so where? and how much more expensive are they.
any decent fencing supplier will sell them, rather than a builders merchant or diy shed

Sorry to bother you again, but I have ordered all my fencing supplies, and upon ordering the supplier said I would only need 2400mm posts to go with 150mm gravel boards and 1800 featheredge, My concern is that if I put these posts in the ground 600mm (2 ft) the featheredge will be higher than the posts by about 150mm.
Is this right or am I missing something here. Should I still go for my original 2700mm?
if your putting up a 1800 high fence, then the height of the fencve includes the gravel board, and the feather edge should actually be 1650 high
You stated that the fence is against a path, so I assume you want greater height for security? If so then you should get longer posts, OR get some concrete spurs and set these into the ground, then fix your posts to this (in which case you'll only need 2m-ish of actual post.
chips - digging those all those holes will be effort enough so don't do your back any more damage by making-up concrete; do use postcrete! Follow Deluks' advice on water. If you plan on staying at that address for decades use concrete spurs as D suggests; when the posts rot in, say 10 to 15 years, replacing them is a 2 bolt job, not a massive digging session or Met Repair Sockets.

3 arris rails is correct, screwed brackets, and always, always use gravel boards. You have a choice of using gravel board clips (galvanised) or treated timber to fix the g/boards (we prefer timber for what it's worth).

Tip - hire a coil nailer (+compressor) with galvanised ring-shank nails for fixing the f/e boards - why I hear you ask? Makes the job of fixing the f/e a 2 hand job (one to hold the f/e, one to use the nailer), otherwise one hand to hold the hammer, one hand to hold the nail, no hands left to hold/position the f/e so into play comes your foot and knee. The job will be quicker, neater, and my opinion more satisfying using an air nailer.

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