Filling countersunk screw holes in MDF

[opps]

@opps it all depends on how much you have got to do. I always find that decorators bitch about the amount of work it take to hand sand 2-pack. They want the joiners to sand it out for them uf possible

Point taken. As a decorator, if I have to spend a couple of hours to sand back filler, after being told that the wood is ready to paint (and quoted accordingly), I too would be annoyed.

There are times where I have to sand profiled areas of two pack by hand, eg






The above was completely built up in layers of 2K and sanded using bits of sandpaper wrapped around metal profiles and various wooden dowels. Time consuming though. That was about 8 hours labour in total.

 

[GhostIntMachine]

I do get what they are saying and I personally try to avoid dumping on the guys. I feel that if nothing else poorly presented woodwork reflects just as much on us joiners as it does on the decorators. I do however get a bit tetchy when some card says something like "...now don't you wish you could do joinery work like that..."

As to your work above, as a joiner I would try to see if it was possible to splice in and profile a piece of timber instead of using filler alone. Should be a lot faster than spending a day with filler, but it does take a bull nose or shoulder plane and a few gouges to pull it off quickly

 

[opps]

I do get what they are saying and I personally try to avoid dumping on the guys. I feel that if nothing else poorly presented woodwork reflects just as much on us joiners as it does on the decorators. I do however get a bit tetchy when some card says something like "...now don't you wish you could do joinery work like that..."

As to your work above, as a joiner I would try to see if it was possible to splice in and profile a piece of timber instead of using filler alone. Should be a lot faster than spending a day with filler, but it does take a bull nose or shoulder plane and a few gouges to pull it off quickly

I could have used bits of timber to bulk it out, but in my experience, doing so can result in the timber expanding at a different rate to the filler. By that, I mean that the solid mass of filler will act as a single mass. The existing timber was 100+ years old and I figured that it was unlikely to shrink back.

Three years later, I could not see any visible step between the filler and existing timber.

 

[justigator]

I did this recently on about a dozen lengths of skirting and just used lightweight filler (Polyfilla One Fill or similar if of a decent brand). No sanding necessary. The screw hole locations are still just visible after painting but I don't mind that as I can easily find them if I need to lift the wooden flooring in future.

 

[opps]

I did this recently on about a dozen lengths of skirting and just used lightweight filler (Polyfilla One Fill or similar if of a decent brand). No sanding necessary. The screw hole locations are still just visible after painting but I don't mind that as I can easily find them if I need to lift the wooden flooring in future.

Sometimes I will use Red Devil OneTime if I know that a screw might need to be accessed but I find it takes two or three fills to make it "invisible". The final (light) sand is done using a block and 180-220 grit silicon carbide paper.