Filling this old window sill

[endecotp]

By helping him, you are enabling him to carry out work that is out of his depth.

It’s worth noting that he’s not the only one who will read, and learn from, the very interesting posts like opps’ above.

 

[Charlie George]

It’s worth noting that he’s not the only one who will read, and learn from, the very interesting posts like opps’ above.

Point taken ie opps great work on the sills, i am going to repair some concrete soon so will follow his great advice, i also see Herts P+D view, he does seem to do an awful amount of varied work, which he has no clue about instead of concentrating on fewer trades/jobs.

 

[HERTS P&D]

I am guessing, or rather hoping, that you are not referring to me... I am not the OP.

Don't worry, I am not refering to you, I know from your threads that you are tradesman and know your trade.

Andy

 

[Keitai]

I wrap polythene dust sheet around a length of timber and clamp it to the underside of the window sill. None of the fillers mentioned above will stick to the polythene.

Once the timber is in place, force the filler into the irregular underside. I try to make sure that it only goes backward about 5mm. If it is an old sill with no drip channel, I don't want rainwater to track back to the wall.

I normally fill the top of the sill first and sand, adding more filler as required. I normally use a very wide knife (12") for the top of the sill.

I use a suitably sized filling knife to face fill the front edge. Some of the filler will reach over the previously sanded top edge. I then use the filling knife to pull the excess filler on to the top face (to ensure it bonds).

Once the filler has set, I remove the clamps. The underside should not need sanding. The poly should pull away. On the balance of probability, you may need to refill the tiny areas difficult to access because of the clamps.

Which sander do you have? I tend to use the 150mm Rotex for the larger areas (80 grit paper). I then use my old DX93 (delta sander) for the internal corners.

If you are going to use the Toupret Touprelith F be advised that it has an annoying quirk. You can apply the first coat, sand it back and then apply a second coat to deal with low spots. When you sand the second coat back, the first coat shows (very slight) evidence of the latter filler (very) slightly ripping the first layer. I normally apply dilute SBR or a couple of coats of masonry paint and drop the abrasive grit to about 150 grit before applying a second coat of filler. That problem doesn't happen with their harder fillers or 2 pack.

I hope the above makes sense, it has been a long day and I am having a few pints.

How about normal Toupret masonry filler?, I have that.

 

[opps]

How about normal Toupret masonry filler?, I have that.

If you mean Toupret Masonry Repair filler

Toupret Touprelith F Exterior Masonry Repair Filler

Fills without depth limit and repairs without formwork. It will adhere to damp masonry and is weather resistant while also being easy to shape. Usable on all rough masonry surfaces, and can overcoat 48-72 hours from application.• Adheres to Damp Surfaces• No Depth Limit• Paintable 72 hours after...

www.toolstation.com

That is Touprelith F. They rebranded their products a couple of years ago. I still tend to use the old names.

 

[Keitai]

If you mean Toupret Masonry Repair filler

Toupret Touprelith F Exterior Masonry Repair Filler

Fills without depth limit and repairs without formwork. It will adhere to damp masonry and is weather resistant while also being easy to shape. Usable on all rough masonry surfaces, and can overcoat 48-72 hours from application.• Adheres to Damp Surfaces• No Depth Limit• Paintable 72 hours after...

www.toolstation.com

That is Touprelith F. They rebranded their products a couple of years ago. I still tend to use the old names.

How did u fix the wood to the sill underneath? Screw it in? After washing the surface I ran my hand over it all and seems the bare masowas a bit dust so put peel stop on that (basically a stabiliser). Will fill all the scraped holes on sill leave the scraping on top section

 

[foxhole]

Wedge the timber from ground with a timber cut to length.

 

[opps]

How did u fix the wood to the sill underneath? Screw it in? After washing the surface I ran my hand over it all and seems the bare masowas a bit dust so put peel stop on that (basically a stabiliser). Will fill all the scraped holes on sill leave the scraping on top section View attachment 390265View attachment 390266View attachment 390267

I normally clamp from the top downwards. If the underside is too narrow, you could do as @foxhole suggested and wedge the timber.

I have only just noticed that you have rounded edges. Fill the top, sand it. Fill the underside and use a small float to pull the edge filler up over the top.

You can wrap a length of sandpaper (from a roll) around a 12" long length of timber for sanding. It will help you maintain a semi-constant profile and then finish by eye.

Looking at the sill, I would apply dilute SBR first. The ratio? I kinda do it by eye. I would probably guess 3 part water to 1 SBR. After applying it, once dry I lick my finger and then dab it, if the colour of the stone work doesn't change, I am content. I would not recommend using PVA. PVA can re-emulsify if it gets wet.

Edit... The lower bit of uPVC needs to be re-siliconed. If not the water from the weep hole might creep behind and down run under the bit you are filling.

 

[cdbe]

Nice work opps. I can't wait to see Keitai's before and afters.

 

[Charlie George]

Nice work opps. I can't wait to see Keitai's before and afters.

Keitai's before pictures will be better than the finished ones

 

[Keitai]

Paint and sand it tomorrow