Fireplace boarding and tiling

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Hi there,

First post but would love some advice on plans to tile my fireplace front following the installation of a woodburner. Plan to board and tile the front with metro tiles (pic attached), keep the interior as the cleaned brickwork and reattach the original oak surround.

At the moment I plan to fix hardiebacker board to the front, then tile directly onto that. Bearing in mind the apperture is small and woodburner will be about 50mm from the edges of the board - but they are the only areas that will take any substantial heat - my questions are.

1. Will Hardiebacker be good enough or will it crack? If it does, would this even matter underneath tiles?
2. What adhesive should I use to attach the board to the brickwork? Will drywall suffice? Don't want to spend crazy money on Vitcas heat resistant board adhesive. Should I use screws as well?
3. What tile adhesive should I use?
4. What grout should I use?

Or do I not even need to worry about the heat as so little of the front will actually get hot?

Any advice gratefully received.
 

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1. Hardiebacker is unnecessary - simply render with lime & sand or sand & cement, and skim. Use stop-beads at outside corners of the opening.
2. n/a
3. Note how traditional surrounds were tiled. Use any powdered adhesive.
4. Any powdered cementitious grout - use a suitable colour but not white.

Is the opening to appliance Mfr's dimensions?
Has the flue been swept?
The work must be HETAS or BCO certified.
 
Thanks. Reason I want to board is fireplace opening aperture is not parallel. One wall tapers in by over a centimetre and the other by half a cm because it's an old 1930s build never meant to be seen. Want a neat edge of tiles hence board. If I was to use hardiebacker would it take heat and what adhesive should I use?
 
You are working up to the plaster line above the old mantel & it will be easier to take out the 10mm or so tapers with a wet wall.
Hardiebacker would take the heat.
If you glue (& screw) it on then use any construction adhesive.
What would you propose for the raw edge of the board around the opening?
 
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Thanks Vinn. I'm either going to use some metal corner edging or, if this looks crap, my local blacksmith can make me a proper trim in steel.
 
If you mean angle bead then it wont work - google pics.
 
Angle bead was one thought. Interested to know why you think it won't work?
 
Make sure your chosen adheaive is within the heat limitations that it will be subject to.
 

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