First decorating job of our house!!!!

[kathrynandchris]

Hi we have been in our house nearly a year now and want to freshen it up a bit. The house is only three years old so isnt needing too much done. Its pretty much magnolia all throughout. We just want to give a coat of this, and do skirting boards and banisters and a few of the doors a lick of paint too.

Needing advice on how to do this, and in what order!

First of all i have read that we paint the walls first.
We want to paint a couple of ceilings too, do we do these before the walls?

Walls:
Will any magnolia paint do? I plan on going to the shops later and picking up a tin. Dont really want to be buying various test pots when all i want is magnolia.

Do i put masking tape along skirting boards?
Do i use a roller for pain bit of wall? and cut in using a brush?
How do i do the landing? As the walls in the stairway are high and we wouldnt be able to rest a ladder up againt them.

Skirting boards and Banisters:
Do we just need to paint over the old paint?
I have heard people sand them?
However we just want to touch up the colour, painting them white again and freshening them up.
Would rather not have to sand.
Do we just use a small brush to do the skirting boards and banisters?
Do we use masking tape on the floor and walls?
Do we take the carpet up? Its cream and also only 3 years old. Saying that we plan on putting new carpets through the house eventually depending on funds after our wedding!
Do we buy just plain white gloss wood paint for this? Will this also do for the banisters?

Also what tools do we need to go buy for doing this?!!

So far my list consists of:

Rollers
Brushes (Guessing a few small brushes, maybe a couple of bigger ones too)
masking tape
Magnolia paint
Gloss white wood paint
Plain white paint for a couple of doors we want to brighten up and a couple of ceilings we want to do too.
Dust sheets

Thanks for your time in reading this and we appreciate all your advice.
Kathryn

 

[Bosswhite]

Get a Painter and Decorator to do the work,

Save you all this worry !

Thats what they are for.

 

[joe-90]

Ignore Bosswhite - he's short of work.

Do it yourself but don't ask all the questions at once.

First decide whether you are going to use oil or water based paints. Oil is easier to apply - but goes yellow.

 

[ladylola]

Also what tools do we need to go buy for doing this?!!

So far my list consists of:

Rollers
Brushes (Guessing a few small brushes, maybe a couple of bigger ones too)
masking tape
Magnolia paint
Gloss white wood paint
Plain white paint for a couple of doors we want to brighten up and a couple of ceilings we want to do too.
Dust sheets

Thanks for your time in reading this and we appreciate all your advice.
Kathryn

don't forget to add some sandpaper to your list as the woodwork will need keying in before you recoat. Maybe some filler too if there are any dents or holes . I tend to do the ceilings first and the skirtings last although others do it different. I wouldn't bother with the maasking tape either it's not too difficult to cut in properly ,just take your time.

 

[Bosswhite]

Ignore Bosswhite - he's short of work.

Do it yourself but don't ask all the questions at once.

First decide whether you are going to use oil or water based paints. Oil is easier to apply - but goes yellow.

And why aren`t you out working and taking advantage of the Economic Climate. instead of replying to posters

 

[sparkwright]

You must sand down all woodwork before re-painting. Otherwise the new paint will peel off. You only need a light sanding.

It's usual to rub down, fill, rub down, dust off first. Then paint the ceiling, then the walls, then the woodwork.

If you're keen or experienced you will be busy painting and preparing things while other painted areas dry.

Painting the woodwork after the walls are done is normal, but if you struggle cutting in there may be some cleaning up tp do. You could paint the walls last if you wanted to.

Masking tape is often more trouble than it's worth, a steady hand is best usually.

If you are very inexperienced, getting a pro in may be best to get a really nice job done without the stress.

 

[sparkwright]

I see you have a lot of questions.

Emulsion is for ceilings and walls and can be matt or silk finish.

Bare wood needs priming.
Woodwork usually requires an undercoat, which is called undercoat!
Top coat can be gloss or satin finish. Gloss looks best in my opinion, and is easier to clean. Oil-based gloss has gone through a phase of yellowing quickly, though to me this doesn't seem the issue it was. I'm sure someone can correct me here.

If you don't fancy lifting the carpet, masking tape would be handy here. But still be careful painting all the same.

If the house is only three years old I would expect the woodwork to be in good nick, unless someone has been careless. If the woodwork is reasonable you may consider just re-doing the walls with emulsion.

Use water to clean up emulsion splashes. Use white spirit for cleaning up oil-based paint splashes. Be sure to clean up all mess and cut in neatly - this is partly what can make a re-dec look dreadful if not done. Same goes with unsightly holes and gaps. Red Devil filler is an easy to use filler. Decorators caulk is excellent for gaps round door frames etc.

Non drip gloss may make life easier for you for doings doors etc. Not exactly a pro product, but may help you out.

 

[joe-90]

Ignore Bosswhite - he's short of work.

Do it yourself but don't ask all the questions at once.

First decide whether you are going to use oil or water based paints. Oil is easier to apply - but goes yellow.

And why aren`t you out working and taking advantage of the Economic Climate. instead of replying to posters

Doing stuff around the house. What's it you anyway?

 

[youngroughcaster]

Hello,, Yes do the ceiling first followed by the walls and then the woodwork!! If your a learner its probaly easier to put masking tape along the top of the skirting board, get a screwdriver and run it along the tape at the top to make sure no paint can get in.

Use a roller when you can but if its awkward just use a small roller,if thats to big then use a cutting in brush!! Cut in with the cutting in brush before using the roller!!

Give it a little sand down and then put on the new white paint! you don't have to take the carpet up! use an old dust towel or sheet. Yes use a little brush to do the skirting boards and banister! Yep the white gloss will do both!!

Good Luck!!

 

[Nige F]

I see you have a lot of questions.

Emulsion is for ceilings and walls and can be matt or silk finish.

.

NOT Silk - Please - unless you like the lego look Dust sheets - go for the polythene backed ones ( all the others are c-rap , the dust goes straight through )

 

[Jimmy321]

If you need to use masking tape then make sure it's up to the job, I suggest using frog tape.

Use low tack (yellow frog tape) on the emulsion surfaces and remove it as soon as you have finished the job as per the instructions and slowly, if it lifts the paint stop and resume from the other side or try and start at another part. Try and do your two coats in one day and remove that night, oh and don't use on freshly painted emulsion try and let it dry for at least 2 days (paint the ceiling first).

You can use green frog tape on the gloss and it's more forgiving when removing.

Don't use standard masking tape or blue tape as they will lift the paint of the surface when you remove them.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

You must sand down all woodwork before re-painting. Otherwise the new paint will peel off. You only need a light sanding.

Please could explain to us DIYers why, why after having painted all the doors in my house a couple of times over the years and never rubbed them down why the new paint has never peeled off?

 

[opps]

You must sand down all woodwork before re-painting. Otherwise the new paint will peel off. You only need a light sanding.

Please could explain to us DIYers why, why after having painted all the doors in my house a couple of times over the years and never rubbed them down why the new paint has never peeled off?

The paint is unlikely to actually peel off but it is less knock resistant and more likely to chip. It is also a royal PITA for the next poor fellow that has to sand it prior to repainting, all too often the paint just rips off rather than sanding flat.

Really winds me up, having to scrape the last coats off when i only quoted for a light sand. Waterbased coats are the worst for this by far. The homeowner wants flat woodwork but doesn't realise that the last "painter" just slopped WB eggshell over the top.

 

[opps]

We want to paint a couple of ceilings too, do we do these before the walls?

Ceilings first, gravity will result in paint splatters on the walls. additionally I personally find it easier to cut in the walls rather than the ceiling because of the working angles. If you roll the last foot or so of the ceiling parallel to the walls you shouldn't have too much splattering end up n the walls. Assuming that you will be painting the walls in the same rooms, it is ok if a little bit of paint hits the walls when cutting in, just ensure that you don't leave anything thick splodges.

I would recommend an extension pole for the ceiling. They are so much faster and safer than working off ladders. If used correctly (from the hip) they are less tiring.

You will need to make make sure that your roller is threaded, more on this later.

Walls:
Will any magnolia paint do? I plan on going to the shops later and picking up a tin. Dont really want to be buying various test pots when all i want is magnolia.

White paint and magnolia are the cheapest "colours". If the walls are in decent condition then I would go for any old trade emulsion (eg leyland), rather than paying a premium for Dulux Trade.

Retail paints are only marginally cheaper than trade paints and are vastly inferior (often requiring more coats). Frequently they are a false economy.

Do i put masking tape along skirting boards?
Do i use a roller for pain bit of wall? and cut in using a brush?
How do i do the landing? As the walls in the stairway are high and we wouldn't be able to rest a ladder up againt them.

I don't like using tape. It is slower to apply than cutting in with a brush. For the walls use a decent 2.5 or 3" brush to cut inYou should be able to cut in at least a foot with each paint load on the brush.

Most of the houses i work in are victorian. The tops of the skirting are seldom straight so i cut in the walls after doing the woodwork. In new builds I do the wood work last.

Stairs are always a PITA but a multifunction ladder will help, you might also need to purchase some off cuts of 18mm plywood to make mini platforms for the ladder to rest on, depends on the stair well 90% of the painting should be achievable with a roller on an extension.

Skirting boards and Banisters:
Do we just need to paint over the old paint?
I have heard people sand them?
However we just want to touch up the colour, painting them white again and freshening them up.
Would rather not have to sand.
Do we just use a small brush to do the skirting boards and banisters?
Do we use masking tape on the floor and walls?
Do we take the carpet up? Its cream and also only 3 years old. Saying that we plan on putting new carpets through the house eventually depending on funds after our wedding!
Do we buy just plain white gloss wood paint for this? Will this also do for the banisters?

You can use webrax pads to key (sand) the banisters. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Pai...Paper/Contour+Sanding+Pads/d150/sd1730/p10736

A 2 or 2.5" brush will be "best" for most of the woodwork you might however want a 1" for the banisters.

When the carpet is being kept/can't be pulled back I use 2" masking tape. A filling knife is used to push 1cm or so into the void between the skirting and carpet edge, it is time consuming though.

I seldom use gloss, most of my clients want a lower sheen such as eggshell. It is far more forgiving, showing up less of the imperfections and dust etc.

I would recommend that you consider proper decorator's merchants rather than DIY sheds. Buy two decnt 9" rollers and slieves, one for the walls and one for the ceiling (Purdy or Wooster are both good).

A long extension pole and a very short one (12-20") will enable you to roll with less energy. You will be able to wrap the rollers and trays in bags overnight (a fine mist from a spray bottle will help reduce the risk of drying oout).

Don't skimp on brushes, a decent brush will enable you to do a better job, buy the best that you can afford/justify. Purdy box sets are ok for what you are doing (approx £25)

If you do go for oil based paint spend £18 on a BrushMate 4. At the end of each day you can store the brush in it for use whenever you are ready to go again. It is not cheap but i am guessing that you will be doing the odd bit here and there (when time permits). The lack of a need for brush cleaner etc will soon reap rewards