Fitting 3-hole bath taps (and shower valve)

[SimonH2]

Helping a friend with some renovations, and got to the bathroom. He's having some 3-hole taps and I have a query on fitting them. This the the pack contents :

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• SimonH2
• 30 Nov 2011
• 1

and a closer view of just the taps :

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• SimonH2
• 30 Nov 2011
• 1

Wouldn't be my style choice, but he likes the square look.

The instructions are terse to say the least :

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• SimonH2
• 30 Nov 2011
• 1

Now, my query.
I'm thinking that the links between the taps and the spout (labelled "pipes" in the instructions) are best done with rigid pipe. Unless they are rigid, it won't be possible to unscrew the top and remove the valve insert later - as shown here, with the top unscrewed, the valve insert is accessible and I assume should be removable with a reasonable length box spanner. Guess I ought to check it will come out before they are stuck at the back of the bath. With the top off, the only thing holding the valve body in place is the link pipe - the supply pipe will be a flexible.

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• SimonH2
• 30 Nov 2011
• 1

So I'm thinking 1/2" to 15mm copper adapters (4 off), and short pieces of copper pipe. Does that that seem reasonable ?


For the shower, it's a concealed valve setup. Should I be worried about thermal expansion in about 2 foot of rigid copper pipe which will be in a straight line between the valve block and a backplate elbow supporting a fixed shower head ?
Ie, is it OK to just run a straight pipe, or should I contrive to have some bends to allow movement ?


Also, on the shower valve, with the parallel thread to 15mm adapters (both supply and outlet), should I use fibre washers, thread tape, both, or something else ?

 

[Burnerman]

An absolutely ghastly design, and you'll have to get your measurements spot on for these.
I've found it best to fix the central spout first (do the backnut up real tight)
because the taps, once they are slid into their hole, have to be connected up initially with their backnuts slack - until the side pipes are connected - and then tightened as best you can.
I used plastic pipe for these - it gives that extra bit of give needed.
You can't rely on the taps being tight for maintenance - hold them from the top. Even copper pipe couldn't be relied upon to help you here - any stress and the things leak.
I hope you don't have to do this job lying on your back under the bath - my job was a bidet and that was bad enough.
Your copper pipe run to the shower should be fine, and it sounds like fibre washers are the way to go.
We now wait for other opinions!
John

 

[SimonH2]

An absolutely ghastly design, and you'll have to get your measurements spot on for these.

I'm not that impressed myself, but that's what my friend has chosen.

You can't rely on the taps being tight for maintenance - hold them from the top. Even copper pipe couldn't be relied upon to help you here - any stress and the things leak.
I hope you don't have to do this job lying on your back under the bath - my job was a bidet and that was bad enough.

Trouble is these simply don't have anything that can be held from above - only a few mm of thread that the upper nut/chrome square screws onto. The only thing above the bath surface is the chrome square bit (which screws onto the valve body) and the control knob.

Access from below will be impossible to anyone that can't squeeze underneath the bath - it's a P-shaped bath and the taps will only fit in the middle of the long side against the wall.

I did suggest a nice wall-mounted tap but he's decided on these

 

[seco services]

So I'm thinking 1/2" to 15mm copper adapters (4 off), and short pieces of copper pipe. Does that that seem reasonable ?

Have you checked that the horizontal fittings won't take a olive/nut ?

 

[Burnerman]

It looks like the horizontal connectors are the same size as the water inputs - 15mm? I'm sure they would accept the traditional compression nut and olive fitting.
Presumably you'll fit these to the bath and then steer the bath into position? Please test the set up first - and then hope that maintenance isn't needed in the future as the bath will have to come out again
When I criticised the design, I didn't mean the style - just the chore of maintenance afterwards!
John

 

[SimonH2]

Have you checked that the horizontal fittings won't take a olive/nut ?

It looks like the horizontal connectors are the same size as the water inputs - 15mm? I'm sure they would accept the traditional compression nut and olive fitting.

No, they are all flat ended. I suppose I could carefully measure and use some galv nipples & couplings to make a rigid assembly. Leakage shouldn't be a problem since these connections aren't pressurised.

Presumably you'll fit these to the bath and then steer the bath into position? Please test the set up first - and then hope that maintenance isn't needed in the future as the bath will have to come out again
When I criticised the design, I didn't mean the style - just the chore of maintenance afterwards!

You do right to criticise it, it's pretty awful really. The body is held in place by the chrome square which screws on after the body is offered up from underneath. Once that's removed, the only things holding the body in place are the pipes.

Yes, it's going to be a case of fitting the taps, testing them, then fit the bath in place - and hope It's not too bad if the bath did need to come out in the future - I think it would be a case of knife round the sealant on three sides, off with two tiles to get at the holdback brackets, and then slip it out. It's not like some installations where half a wall of tiles would need to come out.

I have tried to persuade him he'd like a nice wall tap assembly that could go on/in the false wall where the shower pipework is hidden (and there's some very limited access from below), but he's not going for that.
But it has just occurred to me that the taps can be remote from the spout ...

 

[Burnerman]

Does 15mm pipe slide into the holes between the tap and the spout?
Would a solder tap connector screw into place, with a fibre washer (screwfix 63069)?
John

 

[SimonH2]

I'd have to check, but yes, those connectors would probably do the job nicely.