Fitting a elerctric cooker and hob

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I have a electric oven and gas hob in a property at the moment but the main gas pipe has leaked under the floor so the easiest thing o do would be to replace the hob to electric. I am now going to need a extra socket by oven for the hob. The oven is currently on its own circuit. It has a 32 amp fuse in the consumer unit running to a fuse spare with 100 mm cable, then a 13 amp fuse in the spare running 2.5mm cable to the oven. As I need another socket for hob would this be to change the fuse spare to a cooker isolating socket (see link) then from the cooker isolating socket to fuse spare, then fuse spare to cooker. I understand I may not need the fuse spare as it has a fuse in consumer unit but would this be better, also would a 32 amp fuse be big enough to hold 2 appliance or would it need a 45 amp in consumer unit.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ele...r+Switch+Socket+45amp+Neon/d190/sd2633/p67386
 
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The first and best thing to do would be to repair the gas leak, then stick with a gas hob.
Your ratings of fuses and cable selection, would depend on the output load of the new appliance(s) you intend to buy.
So if you can offer those values, can then make more sense of your position.
 
Thanks for reply, fixing the gas leak is not a option as it in the ground and has corroded as the house is old. It would be more work than it is worth. Is it correct that a 32amp fuse on 10mm cable can only hold 7.2 kw ?

If I have lost manual to cooker how would I find its rating, it is not on the websites what sell it either in the description ?
 
If I have lost manual to cooker how would I find its rating, it is not on the websites what sell it either in the description ?

There will be a rating plate. Maybe it is on the oven door or where the door opens. Sometimes it is on the back where the cable goes in.

We will also need to know what the rating is for the hob.

Also, what makes you think that you have 10mm² cable. How have you measured it?
 
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I installed the cooker last year and measured it yes. Is that correct that a 32amp can only carry 7.2kw ?
 
You're not having much luck with gas pipes are you. First you puncture the one behind the toilet in the bathroom and now the one in the floor has corroded ;)

You do not need to buy a cooker switch with a socket - it will reduce the current capacity of the circuit - just buy a straight forward cooker switch.

As TTC said you need to find out what the rating of the oven is in watts.
Once you have done this you will have to add this figure to the hob figure.
Then divide by 230 to get the total Amps.

Then apply diversity which for a cooker and hob is (Total Amps -10Amps) *30% Then add 10Amps plus 5 Amps if you still insist on having a cooker switch with a socket.

So if the you add the oven and hob watts together and get 10200w then divide by 230 you get approx 45Amps. Plug this figure into the diversity equation you get (45 -10) = 30*.3 = 9 plus 10 + 5 (for the cooker socket) = 24 Amps.

Your MCB will be 32Amps and your cable size, assuming no derating factors will be 6mm (which has a clipped direct current carrying capacity of 46Amps)

You will need a cooker connection unit to connect the cable to the hob and possibly run a fused spur to a socket for the oven (depending on the manufacturers instructions).
 
You're not having much luck with gas pipes are you. First you puncture the one behind the toilet in the bathroom and now the one in the floor has corroded ;)

You do not need to buy a cooker switch with a socket - it will reduce the current capacity of the circuit - just buy a straight forward cooker switch.

As TTC said you need to find out what the rating of the oven is in watts.
Once you have done this you will have to add this figure to the hob figure.
Then divide by 230 to get the total Amps.

Then apply diversity which for a cooker and hob is (Total Amps -10Amps) *30% Then add 10Amps plus 5 Amps if you still insist on having a cooker switch with a socket.

So if the you add the oven and hob watts together and get 10200w then divide by 230 you get approx 45Amps. Plug this figure into the diversity equation you get (45 -10) = 30*.3 = 9 plus 10 + 5 (for the cooker socket) = 24 Amps.

Your MCB will be 32Amps and your cable size, assuming no derating factors will be 6mm (which has a clipped direct current carrying capacity of 46Amps)

You will need a cooker connection unit to connect the cable to the hob and possibly run a fused spur to a socket for the oven (depending on the manufacturers instructions).

You can say that again about luck. Ok I am not following this way that straight forward sorry. So I go from the 10mm cable off the consumer unit to a cooker connection switch for the hob, then what for the cooker I have not got a socket to attach a fuse spare for oven ?
 
Before you go connecting anything you need to design the circuit correctly, this can only be done if you know the output of the oven and the output of the hob.
So you can calculate your fuse rating
Then you need to be aware of the installation method, apply any derating factors, voltage drop etc.. for cable sizing.
32amp fuse protecting 10mm T&E cable can give you maximum output rating of 7360w.
10mm T&E can carry a maximum of 14.72kw if the circuit is installed and designed in the appropriate way.
 
Going to be going to check the oven in the property later but the hob has just been delivered ad that alone is 5440 watts.

I cannot get to the property till later to day, is there anyway I can find out off the internet what the wattage of the oven is? I have searched but cannot find it, the make and model is Matsui MSS60WH.
 
As far as I can remenber it has only got that element so I need a circuit what can hold 5400 watt (hob) + 3200 (cooker) = 8600 watts. What would be the best circuit to run for this ? So what I have to start with is a 32amp fuse in the consumer unit running 10mm cable to right behind the cooker.

Would it be suitable o add a cooker switch to the 10mm cable and then take 2 fuse spares of this for cooker and hob ?
 
Going to be going to check the oven in the property later but the hob has just been delivered ad that alone is 5440 watts.
Then you can't plug it in, as in
I am now going to need a extra socket by oven for the hob.


I installed the cooker last year and measured it yes.
Yes, but how? Which dimension(s) did you measure?

It might be worth you looking at this: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:flatpvccables

And it would definitely be worth you reading this: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part-p



In terms of supplying your appliances you should look at these:
A lot of the material refers to the previous edition of the Wiring Regulations, but it's still a very good grounding, and what you learn from it while you organise copies of up to date publications (see //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:books) will certainly be worthwhile.
 
Know the hob has been delivered I am now aware you cannot plug it in I was just looking for possible circuits on the presumption I could have plugged it in.

I measured the cable width, I am also familiar just by looking at a cable what size it is.

Going on the basis that I have to hard wire the 2 appliances, is it safe to wire a cooker isolator to the 10mm then run 2 fuse spares off for appliance ?

Thanks
 
Know the hob has been delivered I am now aware you cannot plug it in I was just looking for possible circuits on the presumption I could have plugged it in.

I measured the cable width with a tape, I am also familiar just by looking at a cable what size it is.

Going on the basis that I have to hard wire the 2 appliances, is it safe to wire a cooker isolator to the 10mm then run 2 fuse spares off for appliance ?

Thanks
Either A) a wind-up or B) :eek: .

If B) then you shouldn't be installing anything. I presume once you'd used your tape to get such a specific measurement, you used that measurement to calculate the CSA of each conductor?

Also, how would a >5kW cooker ever run off a fused spur, other than to replace the fuse with a nail?
 
I measured a cable with a tape the other day and it was 25 metres.

The 10mm refers to the cross-sectional-area of the conductors - actually 10mm² - not the width of the insulation.

Perhaps you could find out for certain before going any further.
 

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