Fitting a suspended ceiling..

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Hi,

I'm about to embark on a project to put a suspended ceiling in my hall so I can fit sunken downlighters. I live in a flat, so have no access from above and the existing ceiling is backed by concrete.

The hall is 14' x 4'. I was planning to attach joists to the wall all around the top, with several cross-beams.

Questions:

1) Are cross beams necessary in a room this narrow?
2) How do I attach the plaster board to the joists?
3) What thickness of plasterboard would you advise?
4) I don't want to get bogged down with plastering over the top of the plaster boards- would it be OK to just fill any gaps and paper over the rest?

Thanks for your help!
 
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pmx_super said:
Questions:
1) Are cross beams necessary in a room this narrow?
2) How do I attach the plaster board to the joists?
3) What thickness of plasterboard would you advise?
4) I don't want to get bogged down with plastering over the top of the plaster boards- would it be OK to just fill any gaps and paper over the rest?

1, Yes, to stop your plasterboards bowing in the middle, also make sure you have worked out for the joists to pick up the plasterboards joint.

2, Plasterboards screws

3, 12.5mm, 9mm is okay but as you're having downlighter 12.5mm will be stronger for the lights fitting.

4, Yes, you can use stick-on mesh tape on the joins and fill with Easi-fill. Not sure if they're still around they do plasterboards with taper edge so the filling of the joins won't be noticeable.
 
Thanks for the speedy reply!

A couple of quickies..

Yes, to stop your plasterboards bowing in the middle, also make sure you have worked out for the joists to pick up the plasterboards joint.

What spacing sounds appropriate? I was thinking of putting in a cross-member about every 4ft. I guess thicker plaster board is more rigid, so if I'm using 12.5mm does this sound about right?

Plasterboards screws

No glue as well?

Thanks a lot.
 
pmx_super said:
What spacing sounds appropriate? I was thinking of putting in a cross-member about every 4ft. I guess thicker plaster board is more rigid, so if I'm using 12.5mm does this sound about right?
Approx 30" in between
No glue as well?
No need.
 
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pmx_super said:
I was thinking of putting in a cross-member about every 4ft.

I would say 2ft myself, but whatever you choose make sure it is easily divisible into the length of a board. I.e. if you buy 2400mm boards then put the joists in at 800mm or 400mm or 300mm or 240mm... etc.

I have found that some makes of tapered edge plasterboard have very little taper on them. I was going to send some back to Wickes because I thought they had sent me square edge by mistake! So, get a look at what you are buying before you arrange for delivery. Lafarge boards have a good taper on them I found.

No need to use glue as well, but get a friend to help you: a 12.5mm plasterboard can feel a bit heavy when you are balancing it on your head whilst trying to drive screws (or so I have heard ;) )
 
To hold a plasterboards in position, make 2 dead man handle which is so much easier.

A dead man handle is a T-shape with a 45 degree brace to support the bar.
 

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