Fitting an electrically heated towel rail to back of door

[JohnW2]

Indeed - that was obviously the point I was making. The OP's plan to use a flex outlet plate with the FCU outside of the bathroom is probably even better.

that was your quote

That is, indeed, what I wrote - but I'm afraid I don't understand your point. In case it wasn't obvious, what I (and I presume also the OP) meant was a flex outlet plate inside the bathroom and an FCU outside the bathroom. The reason I said that it was 'probably even better' (than having the FCU itself in the bathroom) was that, particularly if it's a switched FCU, it would probably be better for it to be out of the steamy atmosphere of a bathroom. However, as I said, your point about movement of the flex where it leaves the accessory is true whether the accessory within the bathroom is an outlet plate or an FCU. I guess I'm probably just being dim - could you possibly clarify your point?

Kind Regards, John

 

[17thman]

yes, you are being dim, is that clarification enough for you?

 

[JohnW2]

yes, you are being dim, is that clarification enough for you?

Well, it clarifies that you think I'm dim, but doesn't really help me to understand what you have been going on about. Maybe someone else, less dim than I am, could interpret for me?

Kind Regards, John

 

[bonnyrigger]

Hi all. thanks for all the answers but i don`t think it`s a good idea to be squabiling amongst yourseleves!
when the door is fully open the towel rail will probably hit the cupboard door that is in the bathroom. the door will probably in reality not be open this far in nornal useage.
i would think about replacing the coiled cable evry 2 years or so as a matter of preventative maintenance.
it will be just into zone 3,as someone has asked. about 700mm from the bath.
p.s sorry about any bad spelling... just in from a night on the tiles..

 

[JohnW2]

Hi all. thanks for all the answers but i don`t think it`s a good idea to be squabiling amongst yourseleves!

No, it's not a good idea. For what it's worth, I've not been initiating any squabbling - I've merely trying to understand responses which have been made to my posts!

when the door is fully open the towel rail will probably hit the cupboard door that is in the bathroom. the door will probably in reality not be open this far in nornal useage.

If it were practical, you could consider some sort of stop to limit door opening, so as to avoid any risk of mechanical damage to the rail (or trapping of cable between rail and something, if that were a possibility).

i would think about replacing the coiled cable evry 2 years or so as a matter of preventative maintenance.

A very sensible plan - but I doubt that many people consdier doing the same for their irons, hair dryers, power tools etc. etc., whose cables are probably subjected to vastly more flexing etc. than will your towel rail's cable (and they're generally not even coiled cables)!

it will be just into zone 3,as someone has asked. about 700mm from the bath.

For the record, there's no longer a Zone 3 - that died when the 17th edition of the regs appeared in 2008. We now just have zones 0, 1 and 2 - and anything outside of 2 is now regarded as 'not in zones'!

Kind Regards, John

 

[bonnyrigger]

Thanks again John,a wealth of knowledge. I think a door stop would be in order to stop any mechanical damage. Like you say about the cable,maybe i will just monitor it and if it does start to wear then replace it as and when nescesary.
I move into the flat in about 6 weeks time,so i will be putting my idea into practice then.
Thanks all for your help.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It will be fitted with a cable that will be looped to allow for the movement of the door.

Better, IMO:

 

[JohnW2]

Better, IMO: <pic of coiled cable>

If there were absolutely no other option, I would probably consider it, and I can't think of any regs which specifically prohibit it - but I might well consider using a 'coiled' cable, and I would take whatever measures were necessary to remove any risk of the cable getting 'trapped' or 'squashed' when the door opened and closed.

i would think about replacing the coiled cable evry 2 years or so as a matter of preventative maintenance.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks again John,a wealth of knowledge. I think a door stop would be in order to stop any mechanical damage. Like you say about the cable,maybe i will just monitor it and if it does start to wear then replace it as and when nescesary.

You're welcome. If it's any reassurance, I have a coiled cable 'feeding' equipment on a door which is opened and closed pretty regularly and it is still going fine, with no signs of any damage, 20+ years after installation.

Kind Regards, John.

 

[canduit]

Anyone know of a reputable supplier of coiled cable? Looking for 2no. lengths of 2.5mm, 3m unstretched.

 

[JohnW2]

Anyone know of a reputable supplier of coiled cable? Looking for 2no. lengths of 2.5mm, 3m unstretched.

There's always some available on eBay (although probably usually not as long as you're talking about). As for 'reputable suppliers', you only have to ask Mr Google - for example, there are 70+ possibilities for you to browse through (click) here, albeit not cheap.

Kind Regards, John

 

[bonnyrigger]

Thanks for the pic of the coiled cable. That's the way to go.

John,that is very reassuring to hear that,it makes it a goer. Ta.

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks for the pic of the coiled cable. That's the way to go. John,that is very reassuring to hear that,it makes it a goer. Ta.

Indeed. Short coiled cables, like you need, are usually available fairly cheaply via eBay, if I dare mention it!

Kind Regards, John.

 

[viewer]

A non-electrical comment. Most wooden doors if heated on one side will warp.To counteract this you may need to put in a strengthening mount of, say, 18mm plywood and allow for this in designing your outlets and door stops etc.

 

[bonnyrigger]

yes viewer,a point i will consider.
3 hinges would probably help too.