Fitting Doors

[RMS]

I’m want to fit oak veneered doors to a Victorian terrace property. All the original doors have been replaced with cheap modern doors so they need to go!

The measurements of each frame is around height (2020mm) width (810-815mm) and thickness 40mm.

I can source doors that suit these measurements, however, the thickness is 35mm. Can I set the doors back 5mm in the casing or will that look stupid? I can’t take the door stops off as they a rebated into the casing.

The other option is to go to the next width of 826mm and height of 2040mm which will give me the 40mm, but I’m not really keen on taking a large amount off the length of the door both sides and the height.

Any help with this or ideas is greatly appreciated, thanks

 

[foxhole]

You really need new linings to match the doors , veneered doors allow for very little trimming .

 

[aveatry]

The 35mm will be absolutely fine.
But you will most likely have to be prepared to plane here and there on the doors as every one of the door lining/cases will be different and not square no doubt

 

[mrrusty]

prepared to plane here and there

or use a track saw which I find is a much easier and better tool for trimming doors.

 

[aveatry]

or use a track saw which I find is a much easier and better tool for trimming doors.

Yes not a regular DIY tool though that's the problem.
If needed they could buy a cheap plane for £30.
I fitted a load of oak veneer doors and made myself a stand to slot them in which helped a lot when using the plane. Some sections just needed 3mm in on the top or somewhere.

 

[mrrusty]

Yes not a regular DIY tool though that's the problem.

If you are serious at DIY, a very worthwhile investment that opens the door to working much more easily with e.g. melamine faced chip

 

[chirpychippy]

If I can interject. I read door linings with a 6ft and a 2ft spirit level and a framing square.

Put the 6ft on the hinge side "that's where I take my datum from" i then put the framing square against the 6ft to check the square of the head to the hinge side, often it isnt square. I then put the 6ft against the "keep" side of the lining, often the bottom of the lining kicks in. I then put the 2ft on the floor/carpet in the opening to check for level and then put the level from the hinge side across the opening path of the door to see if the floor is going up hill, then I measure the opening of the lining with a tape measure.

The idea is to cut the door 2mm less than the lining shape on the width and get the length very close.

Then I get some glazing packers wedge the door in the lining tight to the hinge side, im looking for a maximum 2mm gap all the way round. You can use other packers to trace the lining shape on to the door.

Hanging doors perfectly takes alot of experience.

Don't forget the leading edge!

 

[aveatry]

If I can interject. I read door linings with a 6ft and a 2ft spirit level and a framing square.

Put the 6ft on the hinge side "that's where I take my datum from" i then put the framing square against the 6ft to check the square of the head to the hinge side, often it isnt square. I then put the 6ft against the "keep" side of the lining, often the bottom of the lining kicks in. I then put the 2ft on the floor/carpet in the opening to check for level and then put the level from the hinge side across the opening path of the door to see if the floor is going up hill, then I measure the opening of the lining with a tape measure.

The idea is to cut the door 2mm less than the lining shape on the width and get the length very close.

Then I get some glazing packers wedge the door in the lining tight to the hinge side, im looking for a maximum 2mm gap all the way round. You can use other packers to trace the lining shape on to the door.

Hanging doors perfectly takes alot of experience.

Don't forget the leading edge!

Yesci used the glazing packers too. They are actually a very useful for loads of DIY jobs.
I also have trend door lifter that works like a mastic gun.
Also really liked the hingetight screws